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DIY oil change Mezger M64 block engine M96/70 M97/70

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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #91  
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Just did my first oil change, took me about 1h but what a dirty job!
I got splashed by oil from the oil pan and the filter was leaking oil all over lol.

Total cost $140.
 
Old Mar 23, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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There you go! Now you know what it's like to be a rigger in the GOM. I've found the best containers to capture the flood are plastic parts washing bins (about 10"X14"X8"). I line them up in the line of fire, so when the stream first erupts, it catches it a couple feet out and then as flow reduces, the others are there to capture it as well. You need about 4 of 'em b/c you have to have them for under the tank and under the sump as well.
 
Old Mar 27, 2012 | 08:17 AM
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Which is the better place to take an oil sample for Blackstone. The sump or the oil pan?
 
Old May 1, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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I thought I'd share how I got the TT on 4 jack stands for my first oil change.
1. Slightly loosen drivers side lug nuts (if you plan to remove wheels)
2. Place floor jack with hockey puck under drivers side rear lift point
3. Jack vehicle enough to place floor jacks on front lift point and rear cross member (as shown perviously in this thread)
4. Lower floor jack and slightly loosen passenger side lug nuts (if you plan to remove wheels)
5. Place floor jack with hockey puck under passenger side rear lift point
6. Jack vehicle enough to place floor jacks on front lift point and rear cross member
7. Lower floor jack and remove wheels (if desired).
8. Get to work.....

Pictures:
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Old May 1, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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My only comment is that for cars that have been lowered (or GT2/GT3,) jacking up in the rear lift point high enough to place a stand under the front may cause the front bumper to hit the ground, especially if you are using a taller stand like Esco.

Thank you for sharing - especially the pics. Rep points to you!

bob
 
Old May 4, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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I did find the rear passenger side floor jack interfering with my oil catch pan so I had to jack the rear up from the passenger side jack point and remove that jack stand for the tank to drain properly into the basin. I also did the turbos (8mm hex), be sure to replace the crush washer and torque those to 22ft-lbs. The passenger side turbo drain location is shown for reference.

As a side note, if you find you have overfilled you can simply drain the crank case which is about 1qt. to avoid draining the tank. This amounts to about 3 ticks on the fill gage.

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Old May 5, 2012 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BMiller33
I did find the rear passenger side floor jack interfering with my oil catch pan so I had to jack the rear up from the passenger side jack point and remove that jack stand for the tank to drain properly into the basin. I also did the turbos (8mm hex), be sure to replace the crush washer and torque those to 22ft-lbs. The passenger side turbo drain location is shown for reference.

As a side note, if you find you have overfilled you can simply drain the crank case which is about 1qt. to avoid draining the tank. This amounts to about 3 ticks on the fill gage.

Thanks for the picture - very helpful...but this was in the very first post of this thread:
Note: 997s VTG turbochargers do not have drain bolts. On 996s, I typically don't bother draining the turbos as the volume is typically quite small.

Inconsistent info??
 
Old May 5, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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I'm not sure what you are referring to about inconsistent info, I was only stating I had chosen to drain the turbos and showed a picture. I was hoping it was helpful info as this thread is cross-posted on some 996TT oil changing threads.
 
Old May 5, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BMiller33
I'm not sure what you are referring to about inconsistent info, I was only stating I had chosen to drain the turbos and showed a picture. I was hoping it was helpful info as this thread is cross-posted on some 996TT oil changing threads.
I did say the picture was helpful...I was confused since I didn't realize you were talking abut a 996.
 
Old May 5, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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It's all good fellas - Even though this post was in the 997TT forum, it applies pretty much to all cars using the same engine block, including the GT3. The main differences are the drainage of the turbos.

BM33 - thanks for posting up the pics.

bob
 
Old May 5, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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Does anyone have any experience with using quick valve plugs? Opinions?

 
Old May 7, 2012 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
Does anyone have any experience with using quick valve plugs? Opinions?

I had one (Fumoto valve) on my F250 diesel. It worked great. Fill one jug. Stop it. Fill another jug. Stop it.....
I think they would stick down to low for a Porsche.
 
Old May 7, 2012 | 09:41 AM
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I was going to do it for my Cayenne, which has 2 drain plugs, both get stripped all the time because they are aluminum.
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 03:41 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by bbywu
For Mezger engines M64 blocks...

Total cost at dealerships ~$150-200.
Total cost of DIY ~$70
Total cost if you or an inexperienced dealership screws things up? How much is the oil tank going for these days? $1444.75, replacement crankcase? $5591.75

Parts and numbers needed:
996 107 225 52(53) oil filter (includes large O-ring)
999 707 465 40 separate smaller O-ring
900 123 010 20 copper ring for the oil tank 44 ft-lb torque
900 123 118 30 aluminum ring for the crankcase 52 ft-lb torque

Tools you'll need after putting your car on ramps, lifts, or stands:
15mm ratchet socket for crankcase drain
19mm ratchet socket for oil tank drain
27mm open ended wrench for counter torque
Oil filter wrench 000 721 920 40

Oil should be changed when the engine has reached normal operating temperature. CAUTION - oil will be hot.

Use a ramp or jack up the vehicle at the correct points.Remove the oil drain screw and collect the engine oil in a disposal container (at least 9 quarts).

Identify the oil tank drain bolt and drain the oil over 20 minutes (44 lb-ft torque.)


Make sure you use a 27mm open ended wrench to counter torque the drain bolt.


Remove the oil filter using wrench and socket:



Next, Remove the filter, old O-ring seals, and replace...moisten the rings with a touch of new motor oil. Reassemble the filter, ring seal, and oil cap. Torque for the oil filter casing is 19 ft-lb.




Finally, identify the crankcase drain bolt and drain the oil over 20 minutes (52 lb-ft torque.)



Once both bolts have drained completely reinstall the bolts with new crush rings, 44 lb-ft torque for the oil tank with the copper crush ring, 52 lb-ft for the crankcase bolt and aluminum crush ring.

Note: 997s VTG turbochargers do not have drain bolts. On 996s, I typically don't bother draining the turbos as the volume is typically quite small.

This technique will require replacing approximately 8 quarts of engine oil.

Good luck.

bob
thanks but my issue is oil won't come out?
 
Old Jul 12, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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The oil should be coming out as a waterfall.
 


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