My budget audio install updated 3/22/15
Budget Audio Install-991
Hi Guys,
Attempting a DIY speaker upgrade to my Bose system on my 2012 991 C2S Cabriolet.
Thanks to RyeM3 and all posters for the tips and comments.
Decided to go with Focal Iss200 with Custom Seas 4" mid ranges for front doors. Rear speakers will be Focal Isn 100. Center replaced with Dayton reference 3" full range.
Will post my install, but have a question on speaker polarity of the Bose Wiring.
When I cut the Bose connectors from original Bose speakers,from the threads and posts, it seems like the striped wire at each speaker location is the negative. The solid wire postitve.
Can anyone please confirm?
Thanks in advance.
Also looking for any feedback on rear side panel removal to install rear speakers.
My car is a 2012 991C2S Cabriolet.
Attempting a DIY speaker upgrade to my Bose system on my 2012 991 C2S Cabriolet.
Thanks to RyeM3 and all posters for the tips and comments.
Decided to go with Focal Iss200 with Custom Seas 4" mid ranges for front doors. Rear speakers will be Focal Isn 100. Center replaced with Dayton reference 3" full range.
Will post my install, but have a question on speaker polarity of the Bose Wiring.
When I cut the Bose connectors from original Bose speakers,from the threads and posts, it seems like the striped wire at each speaker location is the negative. The solid wire postitve.
Can anyone please confirm?
Thanks in advance.
Also looking for any feedback on rear side panel removal to install rear speakers.
My car is a 2012 991C2S Cabriolet.
But on the Right door woofer wire colors are Grey Red and Grey Brown. Found a schematic on 991 Bose wiring and confirmed all brown stripe is negative. Red Stripe is positive.
Thanks to Plenum for advice on rear panel removal.
Just completed the passenger door install. Replaced woofer with Focal ISS200. Mid was Scanspeak 4" Discovery midrange- 4ohm 90db Efficiency.
Below is some pictures. Dynamatted doors and vapor panel. Reused original woofer frames for gaskets.
Original 991 Bose woofers are different than 997 series. Unique design.
I'm a bit concerned as after the install, after leaving the drivers door as stock, and comparing the new side has significantly less output and bass. Also the sound is less open on the new side compared to the stock side
I also updated the to Focal ISN 100 tweeter- fit right into stock housing. This is a good upgrade . Though again less output. A good deal of the difference is using the Focal capacitor to limit the frequencies output by the tweeters. The original stock active crossover from the Bose system crosses the tweeter lower( pribably due to sound staging - brings the stage closer to the front windshield blending with the door .
Did anyone experience the same outcome ? Reduced output, less bass , and a decreased open sound?
The new set up is also quite laid back compared to stock(drivers side).
Comments please !
Thanks RyeM3 for the wiring feedback. Yes confirmed on post #278 polarity . Negative is striped wire.
But on the Right door woofer wire colors are Grey Red and Grey Brown. Found a schematic on 991 Bose wiring and confirmed all brown stripe is negative. Red Stripe is positive.
Thanks to Plenum for advice on rear panel removal.
Just completed the passenger door install. Replaced woofer with Focal ISS200. Mid was Scanspeak 4" Discovery midrange- 4ohm 90db Efficiency.
Below is some pictures. Dynamatted doors and vapor panel. Reused original woofer frames for gaskets.
Original 991 Bose woofers are different than 997 series. Unique design.
I'm a bit concerned as after the install, after leaving the drivers door as stock, and comparing the new side has significantly less output and bass. Also the sound is less open on the new side compared to the stock side
I also updated the to Focal ISN 100 tweeter- fit right into stock housing. This is a good upgrade . Though again less output. A good deal of the difference is using the Focal capacitor to limit the frequencies output by the tweeters. The original stock active crossover from the Bose system crosses the tweeter lower( pribably due to sound staging - brings the stage closer to the front windshield blending with the door .
Did anyone experience the same outcome ? Reduced output, less bass , and a decreased open sound?
The new set up is also quite laid back compared to stock(drivers side).
Comments please !
But on the Right door woofer wire colors are Grey Red and Grey Brown. Found a schematic on 991 Bose wiring and confirmed all brown stripe is negative. Red Stripe is positive.
Thanks to Plenum for advice on rear panel removal.
Just completed the passenger door install. Replaced woofer with Focal ISS200. Mid was Scanspeak 4" Discovery midrange- 4ohm 90db Efficiency.
Below is some pictures. Dynamatted doors and vapor panel. Reused original woofer frames for gaskets.
Original 991 Bose woofers are different than 997 series. Unique design.
I'm a bit concerned as after the install, after leaving the drivers door as stock, and comparing the new side has significantly less output and bass. Also the sound is less open on the new side compared to the stock side
I also updated the to Focal ISN 100 tweeter- fit right into stock housing. This is a good upgrade . Though again less output. A good deal of the difference is using the Focal capacitor to limit the frequencies output by the tweeters. The original stock active crossover from the Bose system crosses the tweeter lower( pribably due to sound staging - brings the stage closer to the front windshield blending with the door .
Did anyone experience the same outcome ? Reduced output, less bass , and a decreased open sound?
The new set up is also quite laid back compared to stock(drivers side).
Comments please !
If I'm reading correctly, you did not purchase a matched set of component speakers. Sounds like the individual are not matched sensitivity-wise. It's something you can adjust if you replace the amp with a 6-channel (or 4-channel with a level-matching resistor on the tweeter, assuming it's more sensitive than the mid).
The Focal ISN 100 and ISS200 are all from the Integration series of Focal. No separate passive crossover boxes . Just separate high low and high pass capacitors for tweeter and Mids. The Scanspeak I selected were 90db sensitivity and 4ohm matching the Focals.
The only major change is the Resistance from original Bose 8" door woofer( 1 ohm) to the new Focal 8"(4ohm).
Since all posters used the similar set up of IS200 or ISS200, I just questioned if everyone got similar results .
Hey there. Yes, initially there will be less output. And the bass will be worse. The stuff needs to break in, so no critical listening for a while! And yes the output will be slightly reduced - the speakers are less efficient than the Bose. However, you will soon be rewarded! Just let the stuff break in. Also, you will find that while the drivers are less efficient, the Bose amp will drive them to very satisfactory volume levels. You will be very pleased.
Now, you've added a non focal mid range. I have no idea if that is really compatible with the focals. Just matching impedance won't do it. I hope it works out. When your done, then rip out the woofers in the subwoofer and replace them with the $40 replacements for even greater benefits!
Now, you've added a non focal mid range. I have no idea if that is really compatible with the focals. Just matching impedance won't do it. I hope it works out. When your done, then rip out the woofers in the subwoofer and replace them with the $40 replacements for even greater benefits!
Hey there. Yes, initially there will be less output. And the bass will be worse. The stuff needs to break in, so no critical listening for a while! And yes the output will be slightly reduced - the speakers are less efficient than the Bose. However, you will soon be rewarded! Just let the stuff break in. Also, you will find that while the drivers are less efficient, the Bose amp will drive them to very satisfactory volume levels. You will be very pleased.
Now, you've added a non focal mid range. I have no idea if that is really compatible with the focals. Just matching impedance won't do it. I hope it works out. When your done, then rip out the woofers in the subwoofer and replace them with the $40 replacements for even greater benefits!
Now, you've added a non focal mid range. I have no idea if that is really compatible with the focals. Just matching impedance won't do it. I hope it works out. When your done, then rip out the woofers in the subwoofer and replace them with the $40 replacements for even greater benefits!
Thanks again. Yes you are right, after a few days it has gotten substantially better. For sure the biggest improvement was replacing those horrible Bose tweeters. I used the included high pass focal crossover and the tweets are crossed at a correct range now. The Bose ones were crossed too low and did not have definition .
The Scanspeak was a good match after all to the Focals. The sensitivity matched 90db and same resistance to the Focals. I did a driver door to pass. door comparison with the focal 4"mid on the left and scans peak on the right and verified they are tonally same. Although the scans peaks are a little more defined.
As for the subs, Unfortunately, I have a 991S cab and don't have those awesome 997 sub boxes in he back. But looking forward to changing out the 1 sub under the drivers dash. Bought a tang bang 5" true sub that should out put better than the original Bose sub.
You rock RyeM3 for starting this post .
Hello, first post here. I found this thread from the 997 forum on rennlist and decided to replace the subs on my 997.1.
I ordered the Dayton 5 1/4 recommended in this thread from the link below:
The sub box is torn apart with no issues. My problem is the Dayton's have a different mounting pattern and I thought these were a direct swap. The center to center on the Bose sub's are 5.5". The Dayton's measure 5.25" which matches the spec sheet. No one else here seemed to have issues. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance for the help!
I ordered the Dayton 5 1/4 recommended in this thread from the link below:
The sub box is torn apart with no issues. My problem is the Dayton's have a different mounting pattern and I thought these were a direct swap. The center to center on the Bose sub's are 5.5". The Dayton's measure 5.25" which matches the spec sheet. No one else here seemed to have issues. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance for the help!
Last edited by tritonic; May 20, 2016 at 08:35 PM.
Hello, first post here. I found this thread from the 997 forum on rennlist and decided to replace the subs on my 997.1.
I ordered the Dayton 5 1/4 recommended in this thread from the link below:
Amazon.com: Dayton Audio DC130B-4 5-1/4" Classic Woofer Speaker: Electronics
The sub box is torn apart with no issues. My problem is the Dayton's have a different mounting pattern and I thought these were a direct swap. The center to center on the Bose sub's are 5.5". The Dayton's measure 5.25" which matches the spec sheet. No one else here seemed to have issues. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance for the help!
I ordered the Dayton 5 1/4 recommended in this thread from the link below:
Amazon.com: Dayton Audio DC130B-4 5-1/4" Classic Woofer Speaker: Electronics
The sub box is torn apart with no issues. My problem is the Dayton's have a different mounting pattern and I thought these were a direct swap. The center to center on the Bose sub's are 5.5". The Dayton's measure 5.25" which matches the spec sheet. No one else here seemed to have issues. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance for the help!
Although the holes did not like up perfectly, I found that you could still use the existing screws into the existing holes with fine results. The difference did not warrant new holes. Also the hole pattern was identical and many other speakers to not use a four hole pattern.
Thanks a bunch for trying to help and I think I understand now. I started threading the screws and they were so angled I was afraid to tighten them.
I'm going to open up the holes a little on the speakers because it will make me feel better and give it another go.
I'm going to open up the holes a little on the speakers because it will make me feel better and give it another go.
Not sure i would try to enlarge the holes as then you might not get any traction for the screws. They should go in just fine and the stock speakers can go back in and still be secured well with the original screws. (I've done it before).
Thank you for all the great details and personal experiences. I replaced the woeful Bose subs with the Dayton units initially and am going to start sourcing the Focal units for the rest of the job.
Long time Rennlister but this might be the most helpful thread anywhere.
Long time Rennlister but this might be the most helpful thread anywhere.
Accolades like this really make me happy to contribute to this forum. With over 70,000 views, I'd like to thank you all for making this one of the most viewed threads on the forum!
I was going to open up the holes on the driver's. I'm definitely not touching the sub box. Thanks for the response.
Hi rrodmanr,
Could you please explain a little bit more "I used the included high pass focal crossover and the tweets are crossed at a correct range now". I don't know how to do that. I'm also planning to install the Tang Band W5-1138SMF or the W5-2053 5" Subwoofers within the rear Box (which one you picked?). For the center maybe the Dayton Reference 3 (Still trying to find another alternative to compare...).
Cheers,
T.
Could you please explain a little bit more "I used the included high pass focal crossover and the tweets are crossed at a correct range now". I don't know how to do that. I'm also planning to install the Tang Band W5-1138SMF or the W5-2053 5" Subwoofers within the rear Box (which one you picked?). For the center maybe the Dayton Reference 3 (Still trying to find another alternative to compare...).
Cheers,
T.
Hi Ryem3,
Thanks again. Yes you are right, after a few days it has gotten substantially better. For sure the biggest improvement was replacing those horrible Bose tweeters. I used the included high pass focal crossover and the tweets are crossed at a correct range now. The Bose ones were crossed too low and did not have definition .
The Scanspeak was a good match after all to the Focals. The sensitivity matched 90db and same resistance to the Focals. I did a driver door to pass. door comparison with the focal 4"mid on the left and scans peak on the right and verified they are tonally same. Although the scans peaks are a little more defined.
As for the subs, Unfortunately, I have a 991S cab and don't have those awesome 997 sub boxes in he back. But looking forward to changing out the 1 sub under the drivers dash. Bought a tang bang 5" true sub that should out put better than the original Bose sub.
You rock RyeM3 for starting this post .
Thanks again. Yes you are right, after a few days it has gotten substantially better. For sure the biggest improvement was replacing those horrible Bose tweeters. I used the included high pass focal crossover and the tweets are crossed at a correct range now. The Bose ones were crossed too low and did not have definition .
The Scanspeak was a good match after all to the Focals. The sensitivity matched 90db and same resistance to the Focals. I did a driver door to pass. door comparison with the focal 4"mid on the left and scans peak on the right and verified they are tonally same. Although the scans peaks are a little more defined.
As for the subs, Unfortunately, I have a 991S cab and don't have those awesome 997 sub boxes in he back. But looking forward to changing out the 1 sub under the drivers dash. Bought a tang bang 5" true sub that should out put better than the original Bose sub.
You rock RyeM3 for starting this post .




