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The focal Utopia Be WS has an 83db sensitivity, aren't you concerned about underpowering it with the stock amp?
The speakers only have an RMS range of 25-75 watts (150 peak) so should be fairly efficient vs a sub that has a much higher RMS power handling capacity, and I'm assuming the factory amp that powers the subs is somewhere around 40 RMS (maybe I'm incorrect about that), but if so, once I connect the two 4 Ohm subs together at 2 Ohms, I think I'll get adequate output from them, but if not, I'll just get an inexpensive mono amp to drive them at their maximum and wire it in - should be able to find one of those in the $100 range - probably a 250 Watt x1 at 2 Ohm, like an Alpine MRV-M250.
What I like about these Utopia ones is the low frequency response of 36-1,500Hz range; everything else I found in a 5" or 5.25" size that would fit in the ported Bose enclosure was around 65-68 Hz at the low side of the range, which is really getting closer to mid-range and not a true subwoofer. Covering this low in the range with the subs, with with the 8" Focal woofers that will install in the doors, I should end up with a very well balanced system across the full audible spectrum (or at least as well as I can do preserving the OEM look to the interior).
I tried those exact replacements from Parts Express. Very underwhelmed by them. To the point I removed the sub entirely. Either too muddy or insufficient extension to be of any use. Just annoying that it was there and not very effective. I am torn between which combination of Focal speakers, Head unit, power amp to replace. Not sure if just doing only one will be sufficient for me.
Did anyone not read my post on updates to Ryem3's setup? The SB Acoustics are a drop in for the subs and have a Fs of 38hz. Also I am using a Peerless 2.5" 8 ohm for my center channel. It sounds really good. The issue with using a tweeter as a center speaker is it rolls off very fast at the lower frequency. If I recall the tis1.5 drops off at 3000hz.
Originally Posted by BF951
I tried those exact replacements from Parts Express. Very underwhelmed by them. To the point I removed the sub entirely. Either too muddy or insufficient extension to be of any use. Just annoying that it was there and not very effective. I am torn between which combination of Focal speakers, Head unit, power amp to replace. Not sure if just doing only one will be sufficient for me.
I'll be interested to hear how those exotic subs work out. Seem like overkill with the tiny class d amp in the box. I would try florindi's option first.
To the other person that pulled the parts express speakers, many of these speakers need a fair amount of break in. And the problem with a car is that you can't leaves it run in overnight or longer! You've got to give them time to break in. The results for me were surprisingly good.
I'll be interested to hear how those exotic subs work out. Seem like overkill with the tiny class d amp in the box. I would try florindi's option first.
To the other person that pulled the parts express speakers, many of these speakers need a fair amount of break in. And the problem with a car is that you can't leaves it run in overnight or longer! You've got to give them time to break in. The results for me were surprisingly good.
I've decided to replace the Amp with an Alpine MRV-M250 (250 Watts x1 @ 2 Ohms) to properly drive the expensive Utopia subs, and am now also considering replacing the front Factory Amp with a 6-channel unit
1 pair of outputs for the door midranges and dash tweeters, one pair of outputs for the 8" door woofers, and 1 pair of outputs for the coax rear side speakers.
Having not pulled the frunk plastic panels to actually see the amp, what I don't know is if the stock PCM 2.1 transmits it's signal to the OEM Bose amp in a traditional way where I can just use either existing low level or high speaker level inputs to the new amp and then use the speaker wire outputs from the OEM amp to the new amp or if I have to do something unique. Would appreciate input from anyone who has replaced the Bose amp but kept the stock PCM head unit. If using an aftermarket amp is too complicated or expensive, I'll just stick with changing out the speakers and keep the OEM amp, except in the back for the subs.
Ah, you head down a slippery slope! The head unit is fiber optic connection to the amp. Running a different amp with the head unit requires a special harness, which was several hundred dollars if I recall correctly.
Adding a different amp for the subs will probably require a new power cable, since the stock one to the sub amp is is not very robust. That means you'd need to run power from the frunk all the way you the back. Some people don't find that intimidating, I consider such mods aPIA. All of these mods add to a better system, but the budget system really added a lot of benefit at a modest cost.
Ah, you head down a slippery slope! The head unit is fiber optic connection to the amp. Running a different amp with the head unit requires a special harness, which was several hundred dollars if I recall correctly.
Adding a different amp for the subs will probably require a new power cable, since the stock one to the sub amp is is not very robust. That means you'd need to run power from the frunk all the way you the back. Some people don't find that intimidating, I consider such mods aPIA. All of these mods add to a better system, but the budget system really added a lot of benefit at a modest cost.
Based on needing a MOST adapter, I've decided to just keep the OEM Bose asp and do the speaker replacement. For the rear sub, I still think I will upgrade the Amo. I wonder if I could run a heavy gauge wire to the power cable for connection at the starter since it's already heavy gauge from the battery to simplify the install. Then I could run another heavier gauge ground to a nearby chassis ground. Thoughts?
Never heard of anyone doing that. There are some threads showing how to run power to the rear from the frunk. This gets you into the complex install category though! I would get power from the battery.
OK, so now I'm thinking I'm going to keep this simpler and not pull the inner thresholds, carpets, etc to run proper gauge wire from the battery to the back of the car.
I'm going to downscale the amp choice for the rear Focal Utopia subs and go with an Alpine KTP-190U which puts out 60 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms. This should let me drive the subs a little stronger than the existing Bose amp, which is probably more like a 25W or 40W RMS amp, and is well within the power range of the speakers, which are rated for 25-75 Watts RMS. I got nervous about using that larger Alpine Amp and potentially damaging these expensive subs.
So now I have my "medium budget audio install" thread.
Finally got around to ordering center replacement speakers as well as Dayton sub replacement. Lol
Will let u know if there is noticeable improvement after install.
Had time this wknd to swap the speakers... only to find out that Bose sub in cab is oval shaped. Lol
The 5.25 sub will not fit obviously. (Sorry forgot to take pics)
Does anyone know if there is a good replacement ?
Replacing the center speaker with tweeter did not add much to overall sound btw.
08-16-2017, 08:38 PM
