I would never use a non oem filter. Really to save $30 makes no sense.

7 years ago When I had my oil changed for the first time the filter that came out was a Bosch filter. The last oil change was done at a aston dealership in Newport Beach..

Kinda shocked a dealer used non oem filter

 

Just Don't Do It...

Use OEM filter and correct oil

 

There is no evidence anywhere (I could find in a 3 year search) that suggests the Aston Martin Vantage V8 oe oil filter is any different in bypass pressure ratings than the core Ford engine it is derived from. If you have a technical document that suggests otherwise then post a link instead of propagating this myth.

Edit: ironically the only catastrophic failures I have read about directly attributable to oil filter failure all used AM OE filters.

 

And by all means, change your oil regardless. I've used Fram, and every other filter on the shelf for everything. 1st choice is OEM but if I need one now..... they all work as designed.

 

I've read all the conversations. Rich mentioned that he'd heard 23psi from more than one source and @BMW-North, you appear have questions on the actual pressure as well. So whether it's 23 or not, we just don't know what it is, so slapping on a filter that fits is not a move that everyone is comfortable with.

 

Interesting because I went to Bosch website for parts available for my 2009 vantage and all it listed were batteries and wiper blades

 

So, in your 3 year search, did you find where Aston Martin denied a catastrophic failure when it was caused by an OEM filter? Do you think 60w oil, in the larger volume 10.5 liter oil V8 engines should use the same filter as smaller displacement engines with lower viscosity oil?

I checked Bosch website and found only batteries and wiper blades for my 2009 Vantage. Fram listed no parts...

Do you think Bosch or Fram would warrant an Aston Martin engine if proved the filter caused catastrophic engine failure?

 

That would be mine, which is why I bought up all the previous gen white filters I could find. And the reason they covered it, after taking a week to make the decision, was because it was dealer serviced. If you're changing your own oil do not expect the same result. And the reman engine is $44k, not 35. Somehow, and nobody knows, I got a brand new engine, and not just the long block, it was complete with every accessory already attached. I have no idea what that cost would be but guaranteed it's more than $44k.

I seriously doubt NB put anything other than an OEM filter in the car. I'm guessing you bought used, the last service record showed them, but it had been changed at home or indi after.

 

bought it from NB and was serviced at Newport. was a dealer car

this is when they were a aston jag dealer. the same filter is used for jags. it was them. like i said shocked.

 

That is surprising.

 

so is this https://amzn.to/2nlUEVE Castol Edge Supercar 10W-60 oil ok? or should i go with the cheaper https://amzn.to/30MEkea Motul 8100 X-power even though its only in 5L jugs

I'll need about 11L for the 4.7? so just curious what you all think

 

You'll need less than 10L. Mine takes more like 9.5L. Either of those oils are fine... I use Motul 8100 X-Power.

 

Thanks! I'll go with the Motul then as its a bit cheaper and easier

 

Book states 10.4L (11qt). For max level marker on stick, I've found is exactly 10L. Putting 10.4L won't do any harm with dry sump system, your still in the clear of return pipe for tank.

9.5L and your at the mid point of min/max.

I've always used the Castrol TWS when wrenching at dealer, but it was the official oil so dealer was using it.

Motul is great. On my family car, I use Motul X-Clean..

 

Just wanted to verify...

So I hand-tightened the oil filter on my 2009 DBS. It feels snug. However, I noticed a gap (maybe 3mm?) between the lip of the metal filter housing and the surface the filter attaches to. Is this normal or should the lip sit flush against the surface. I'm trying to be careful not to overtighten. (There don't appear to be any leaks of any sort.)