thanks to forum '15 vantage safely up on blocks under tires, oil filter changed, reservoir plug opened and closed with new copper, two of three sump plugs drained and replaced, BUT could not find 3rd plug, no other 15 mm heads around other than mounting bolt for ancillary near oil filter. Felt and looked all around. Went ahead and added new oil to what little old might be left and felt no harm for next 1 yr, 4000mi casual driving. Where is third plug, maybe other side of crossmember as in bypass on 4.3L. By the way, in vicinity of other two plugs was a nicely machined conical hole into block bottom. Maybe unfinished 3rd. plug. Will try to post picture. Bolt3 (1024x576).jpg (429.8 KB)
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Um..those look like V12 drain plugs. Are you 100% sure the ones you installed are the same thread? I know the Jag plugs are that color but those look to have a rubber gasket surrounding the hat, which is for V12 and those are more course thread versus fine thread like the V8 plugs.


Btw, their 13mm plugs, not 15mm..15mm is also a V12 plug.


Those 2 plugs should be a 13mm head, and the 3rd is about 2 feet more rear of the engine, just before torque tube. It's parallel with the front/top plug in that picture you posted.

 

The oil change on my 4.7l vantage started crappy and is very frustrating at this point.

I watched Rich's YouTube video and it seemed straight forward.
The filter was so tight that my tool wasn't good enough. A friend of mine borrowed me his wrench but still no movement. The filter started leaking due to punctures from me trying to get it off.

Well i got a grip and the filter is off.

However thr bracket where the filter is screwed on came off as well.
Ok no worries, I'll go and get a 15mm Allen hex and all set.
Just got back from every tool store in town and no one has a 15mm Allen. Not sure what to do now.

Did anyone experience the same cluster and has any advice?

edit: uploaded a video with the old and new filter I got from Rich.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Hz8tY-S_0

 

I see I'm not the only one what required more than one day to get the filter out.

What tool did you use to get the threaded part out of the filter and back in the engine?

 

I wonder it you use other new filter and threat it then rotate two filters in opposite direction, may be it will come off of the old filets. Before that spray some penetrating oil on it .

 

I had this exact problem. When I finally got the oil filter out it unscrewed the part from the engine. We were able to go to the auto parts store where I had been buying the various wrenches for removing the filter.

I bought the adapter and was able to use the store's massive wrench and vise to unscrew the part.

I recommend you take the filter with you to an auto parts store or even to a repair shop and ask them to get the part out.

Good Luck!

 

Try a bicycle shop as it looks like they are using 15mm hex wrench, here is a link

http://www.parktool.com/product/15mm-hex-wrench-hr-15

or you can buy this

 

All done. I took my oil filter to Harbor freight and test fitted all kind of pieces to find an option.

9/16 Allan hex fits and is just a bit lose. I bought the set and had wifey hold the Allan with a 30" breaker bar while I used the oil filter wrench and it came out.

All set, 10l filled and created a huge oil spill in the end in my driveway with the old oil. Just cleaned 7l oil up for a couple hours.

thanks for all the suggestions. I went with my oil filter to advanced auto and autozone. Both didn't had anything what worked for my filter. Advanced auto tried couple Allan they had a gap in all sets 14 next 17.

using the new oil filter on the other end will not work since the threat is different on the engine side. The threat is thinner on the engine side.

I saw the shimano 15mm Allan hex but shipped from Europe would have taken too long.

 

Somehow that $430 oil change at the dealer just doesn't seem as bad now. Free coffee and donuts, clean fingernails, no headaches, no Exxon Valdez in the driveway.

 

Sorry if this has been asked, but why aren't owners using Aston Martin oil filters by default?

 

My new filter is a OEM Aston Martin filter, redpants sells OEM parts.

 

Did my first oil change on the Vantage Saturday. It was pretty straightforward and didn't have any issues. I picked up the Castrol 10w-60 from Amazon and the filter kit off Ebay that comes from Miller Motorcars.

I drove the front of the car up on to some wooden ramps I made many moons ago for another car and they worked fine on the Vantage. I wanted to use the new QuickJack, but I have some issues with my garage floor that kept me from using it. Thankfully the filter came off with no issues. I had to use my filter wrench, but that is more because it's hard to get ahold of it with your hands where it's located. I have the kind with three flanges that you use with a ratchet and that barely fit in the space. A strap wrench would probably work easier. I hand tightened the new one using a rubber glove I have specifically for that purpose that allows a good grip. I have never used a wrench to tighten a filter. I filled the new filter up with oil before putting it on as I'm in the habit of doing that for all my vehicles. Minimal oil comes out even with the sideways mount. It's more important on my F350 where the filter holds over a quart of oil, but I do it out of habit all the time.

I drained the oil from all three places on the sump, but the two plugs farther back have minimal oil come out of them. I think you could probably forego removing them every time. I guess if you're doing a change once a year it isn't that big a deal, but on the newer cars where there's no filter to clean I think you'd be fine not removing them.

It took 10.250 liters to get the oil exactly to the full line. The oil was low to start so maybe 9.5L if the car was full to start. The oil level doesn't seem to go up a whole lot after running the car for 20s as it says in the manual. It goes up maybe a 1/4 of the distance between low-full lines. That's enough that you want to check it after running the car periodically, but you could guesstimate it by just checking before you start the car.

Since there's a thread where the OEM filter failed on somebody's car I kinda poked and looked in the filter a little. Not much you can see externally. The failed filter looked like the white plastic just inside the front of the filter had cracked apart and blocked it up, but you really can't see a whole lot of it. Maybe something happened to it in transit. You can check a little of the filter, but I guess you just have to assume it'll be ok.

I followed the service reset procedure listed in this thread and it worked. The triangle will flash 4 times and if you wait till it stops flashing the procedure doesn't work. You have to do it after the third flash.

I took it slow since this was the first time and also poked around under the car a bit. Next time would go much faster. I did notice that the crank pulleys are pretty rusted. It's surface rust, but I wasn't expecting to see that. Nothing else on the car is rusty like that. Is that pretty normal?

David

 

Hello,

The original poster suggested Fram PH9010 as a substitute oil filter. I used K&N HP-1014 filter and it fit exactly. The K&N has the hex head that makes it easy to remove. As noted, the filter location is tight on Vantage and difficult to remove using conventional tools, and the last resort (stab a screwdriver through it like Tavarish did on Youtube) is not desirable. 2x Motul 8100 10W60 5L jugs is exactly the right amount of oil (=10.5qt).

Sorry for the glare on photo.

 

The interchangeable fit isn't a problem, the concern is that the Aston filter has an unusually high bypass pressure, about double what you typically find. Thick oil. And we haven't seen data suggesting an equivalent from the aftermarket. I'd love to find one though.

 

One more point on this. Lower bypass pressure means that the oil is not being filtered as much as intended. It's bypassing the filter media. Meaning more metal bits circulating through the engine. Which isn't good for longevity, as one could imagine.