When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There is no evidence anywhere (I could find in a 3 year search) that suggests the Aston Martin Vantage V8 oe oil filter is any different in bypass pressure ratings than the core Ford engine it is derived from. If you have a technical document that suggests otherwise then post a link instead of propagating this myth.
Edit: ironically the only catastrophic failures I have read about directly attributable to oil filter failure all used AM OE filters.
@BMW-North Did you ever do that pressure test on the oil filters?
Last edited by blue2000s; Oct 21, 2019 at 09:38 AM.
So I hand-tightened the oil filter on my 2009 DBS. It feels snug. However, I noticed a gap (maybe 3mm?) between the lip of the metal filter housing and the surface the filter attaches to. Is this normal or should the lip sit flush against the surface. I'm trying to be careful not to overtighten. (There don't appear to be any leaks of any sort.)
It will still look like there's a little gap, but the o-ring needs to seal on the plate. I suspect there's gunk on the threads that make it feel like it's stopped. Try and clean the threads off with a rag with a little degreaser on it.
No gunk.......could have double gasket from old one on there(unlikely) or just didn't crank on it hard enough. It should have spun on with virtually no effort until rubber gasket made initial contact with housing. Only then should you feel resistance.
No gunk.......could have double gasket from old one on there(unlikely) or just didn't crank on it hard enough. It should have spun on with virtually no effort until rubber gasket made initial contact with housing. Only then should you feel resistance.
Thanks everyone for the replies. I think this answers it. I stopped turning when I felt a decent amount of resistance. I think I probably just need to turn it a little more.
the oil reservoir bolt is which direction to remove? lefty loosey, correct? its not some backwards *** threaded thing is it?
I can't get my effing bolt off... wondering if i'm turning it the wrong direction, but looking at the replacement bolt I don't think i'm wrong here...
Lefty loosey is correct.
13 mm deep socket + 3/8 long handle ratchet is all I use (I use a deep socket to gain more clearance...aka avoiding bloody knuckles). I regular length ratchet would work, just takes a nice hammer fist to beat it into the right direction! LOL
__________________
__________________ Technical Director Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited 214 Maple Ave. Oliver, B.C Canada V0H 1T9 Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com www.velocityap.com
13 mm deep socket + 3/8 long handle ratchet is all I use (I use a deep socket to gain more clearance...aka avoiding bloody knuckles). I regular length ratchet would work, just takes a nice hammer fist to beat it into the right direction! LOL
Thanks, I thought so... guess i'll have to wait for the penetrating oil to do its thing... that and a bigger ratchet will hopefully pry this bugger loose
The threads are soaked in engine oil. It's the copper washer that's crushed to stop the oil from leaking out. The washer binds on the drain plug and prevents it from backing out..it's not seized, just very tight. It's one of the main reasons I've always used a torque wrench on drain plugs, avoids over tightening and no issues for removal. I'm so OCD, I even use my torque wrench for the oil filter.
__________________
__________________ Technical Director Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited 214 Maple Ave. Oliver, B.C Canada V0H 1T9 Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com www.velocityap.com
The threads are soaked in engine oil. It's the copper washer that's crushed to stop the oil from leaking out. The washer binds on the drain plug and prevents it from backing out..it's not seized, just very tight. It's one of the main reasons I've always used a torque wrench on drain plugs, avoids over tightening and no issues for removal. I'm so OCD, I even use my torque wrench for the oil filter.
well the dip**** at the dealer I went to a year ago for an oil change certainly didn't use a torque wrench... whats the recommended torque for tightening? Planning on using a torque wrench to put the bolt & washer back on to avoid this in the future
The threads are soaked in engine oil. It's the copper washer that's crushed to stop the oil from leaking out. The washer binds on the drain plug and prevents it from backing out..it's not seized, just very tight. It's one of the main reasons I've always used a torque wrench on drain plugs, avoids over tightening and no issues for removal. I'm so OCD, I even use my torque wrench for the oil filter.
What torque wrench do you use? Looking for a quality one that's good for some of these lower torque settings. (I just broke a throttle body bolt, because my torque wrench didn't click when it was supposed to.) Also, what's your method for using a torque wrench on the oil filter?
