Awesome. Thank you guys.

Does anyone change anything else while doing the annual oil changes other than making sure all fluids are topped off? Just curious what others on here are doing themselves annually other than oil/filter change. Thanks again.

 

I ordered my oil online from Turner Motorsports. Around $12/quart. My filter kit was also from Miller in Connecticut via eBay.

 

I was actually amazed. the Aston dealer in my area was only like .14 more per quart than the 3 BMW dealers I called. I paid 13.21 per qt. from the BMW dealer.

I never actaully called the Aston dealer just because of everything that I read, but when i was there picking up the filter I asked how much the oil was and that was when I found out.

 

I just did all my brakes....not that any red lights were on but I usually change them before that happens since I don't want to change the sensors.

 

What sort of sensors are you talking about? I have had low brake pad sensors turn on a few of my other cars but when you replace the pads the pads have new sensors built right into the pads. Is that not the same with the Aston?

 

The sensors are separate units. Not terribly costly (check Aston Bits or HWM) but if you change pads before they trip you can reuse them with your new pads. Not sure if it's mentioned in the thread (kinda getting OT btw) but the Porterfields are an excellent and better performing OEM alternative (and you can fit the sensors into them easily - but just note there are no R/L pads so the sensor goes to the front of the pad on one side and the rear on the opposite one).

 

that is good to know. I had porterfields on my last two cars. Do you have any model/part numbers for the appropriate pads.

 

Not off hand but if you just use their site, you can enter the model and make and it will take you right there.

 

Is it imperative to take out the bypass filters?

I am tempted to leave them alone....

 

I was going to do the same thing but after pulling out the drain plug and not very much oil draining out of it, I was worried that something was wrong. After pulling out the two bypass filters, I think that the other half of the oil that was in the car came out of those two locations. I still dont know if what happened was good or bad, but that is what I encountered.

 

Thanks for the tip. Will defo remove all of them then.

 

Attempted an oil change today and its been a pig. The drain bolt no problem the oil filter no problem. It was interesting to see the sump bolts had no washer - just a built in rubber gromet.

The problem I had was with the bypass filter. For love nor money will it come off. Tried unscrewing it with a long lever to get extra power to remove the bolts but it just wont budge. I am thinking that they have never been taken off!!!

Is there another way to get the rest of the oil out from the rear part of the sump pan. I have only managed to remove about 8 litres.

 

The bypass filters are a very tight fit and are essentially held in place by the o-ring which also keeps the oil from pouring out once you remove the cover. I attach a hex bolt (M10?) to the end of the filter and wiggle it back and forth as I am pulling it down in order to remove them. Be prepared to catch the oil that pours out once it finally becomes free.

 

Will give it another go today. I thought it wouldnt be this hard or I would of paid someone to do it (sigh)

Is there another way to expell oil from the sump?

 

Are you talking about the two small hex bolts on the plates that holds the bypass filters in. Are thoses the bolts that wont budge?