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I did mine today 2009 v8v and you don't need to remove the metal tray. There is a cut out for the oil sump and the three plugs are right there to get at.
I've seen alternatives for the drain plug, the o-ring and the oil filter. How about the copper washer? Is it just a flat washer or does it have a special profile?
I've seen alternatives for the drain plug, the o-ring and the oil filter. How about the copper washer? Is it just a flat washer or does it have a special profile?
Although it's not an exact replacement, I've been using Dorman #097-138 as a substitute for the AM OEM copper drain washer on the dry sump oil reservoir on my 2007 4.3 Vantage.
Both are available from rockauto dot com: The copper washers are sold in a box of 10 for less than $10 + s/h ($0.94 each).
The drain plug is less than $3 + s/h.
I normally just replace the drain plug gasket rather than the whole assembly, as the metal part doesn't usually wear out .
You can see the gaskets in the bottom of the photo; but I can't, at the moment, remember where I sourced them...senior moment I guess?
I suspect any good auto parts store can supply 14mm ID oil sump drain gaskets, if you choose to go that route (as well as M14-1.5 drain plugs at a cost less than AM charges).
The availability of the copper gaskets might be another story...
The oil bypass filter O-rings are 1 1/2"ID X 1 11/16"OD X 3/32"CS. Nitrile (aka NBR or Buna-N) Durometer 70 Shore A. Available online or at hardware stores. They're about $0.10
Be careful with alternative oil filters. Check all the specs.
The bypass pressure for the OEM filter is a relatively high 23PSi.
I f you use a filter with a lower bypass pressure you could have most of the oil circulating without passing thro the filter.
I did a bunch of research on this and even tried getting custom oil filters made, but the $50-100k initial investment quotes I was getting were complete dealbreaker.
I ended up sticking with OEM for as much as possible, only replacing things for of an increase in quality, to fix an problematic part, or because I've found an identical replacement for a non-critical item.
OEM is still a bit expensive compared to the "normal" supplies for a Ford or Honda or something, but I've managed to bring down the costs of maintenance considerably without sacrificing any peace of mind for parts quality or compatibility. For example, I had my first service done by a dealership when I first bought my '07 V8V. They charged me $650 just for an oil change. I've cut that cost down to less than 1/3 of that:
I have been queried on oil pressures.There is confusion between "absolute or in line" pressure and "bypass" pressure which is a differential pressure.
Say the oil leaves the pump at 75PSi and enters the filter at that pressure.
The oil leaves the filter at a slightly lower pressure when the filter is new.
As the filter ages and gets clogged the leaving pressure is further reduced.
The filter is fitted with a bypass valve (Normally spring loaded) .This is a safety feature because if the filter becomes totally clogged no oil would reach the engine! This valve opens (closes?) at a preset pressure and all oil passes to the engine unfiltered.
So suppose that the oil leaves the filter at 60PSi then the bypass pressure is 15PSi and the OEM filter would be fully operational.
However if the filter had a bypass rating of say 12 PSi then the valve on a new filter would operate and some or all the oil would bypass.
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