DIY oil change
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Ocala, fl
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Yep, V12 is pretty straight forward..there is no dry sump, it is a wet sump system like the normal average amount of cars on the road..depending on the model 1-2 drain plugs at the bottom of the oil pan..
On DB9/DBS some ppl remove the drivers TB(LHD) to gain access to the filter(filter is removed from the top, at no means can it be removed from the bottom unless your planning on removing the subframe for a oil change..lol)..I myself do not remove the TB, I just remove the intake tube to the TB and the filter fits through that area..
On the V12V, there is a special tool that punchers the filter, then drain the oil from the oil pan drain plug..then remove the filter from the top..by punchering the filter the oil does not make a mess when removing the fitler cause the filter is inverted upwards(threads facing down)
On Vanquish..remove the exhaust heat vent on drivers side and filter will slide through this area
On all teh V12 models you will need to make your own type of flap funnel to guide the old oil from the filter to a drain bucket(I use a form-a-funnel from PIG)..otherwise it will get all over he subframe and will take a nice amount of time to properly clean it all out..if not cleaned it will leak all over your nice shinny floor..and when taking off fast, it will spray down along the floor boards and sometimes throughout your drivers side inner tire fender lining..
V12 oil changes may sound easy, but the clean up is a real hassle(garantee no comebacks due to old oil dripping..usually go through 3 cans of brake cleaner!!
)..I'd do a V8V service any day over a V12 
On DB9/DBS some ppl remove the drivers TB(LHD) to gain access to the filter(filter is removed from the top, at no means can it be removed from the bottom unless your planning on removing the subframe for a oil change..lol)..I myself do not remove the TB, I just remove the intake tube to the TB and the filter fits through that area..
On the V12V, there is a special tool that punchers the filter, then drain the oil from the oil pan drain plug..then remove the filter from the top..by punchering the filter the oil does not make a mess when removing the fitler cause the filter is inverted upwards(threads facing down)
On Vanquish..remove the exhaust heat vent on drivers side and filter will slide through this area
On all teh V12 models you will need to make your own type of flap funnel to guide the old oil from the filter to a drain bucket(I use a form-a-funnel from PIG)..otherwise it will get all over he subframe and will take a nice amount of time to properly clean it all out..if not cleaned it will leak all over your nice shinny floor..and when taking off fast, it will spray down along the floor boards and sometimes throughout your drivers side inner tire fender lining..
V12 oil changes may sound easy, but the clean up is a real hassle(garantee no comebacks due to old oil dripping..usually go through 3 cans of brake cleaner!!
)..I'd do a V8V service any day over a V12 Can you please please put step by step guide with pictures for doing oil change on DB9?
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More details?
Parts used?
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From: saratoga
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I did the oil on my v8 Vantage, I removed the under belly plate and removed the screw from the header tank, after driving up on two ramps. Removed the oil filter.
The tank with filter took 9 litres - no problem I did not remove the two metal filters (Bypass filters) (car has only done 3000Km since done by agents) based on that i decided not to pull the metal filters out. (thinking / hoping AM did it by the book)
The manual from AM says that during a oil/ filter change it will take 9.5 L or 10 Qts.
Im not sure that it holds that much oil in those chambers you guys refer to? so the theory of diluting old oil with new is not clear to me, in the manual it does say that a new engine will take 13 litres?
any comments? advise
I got 10 L castrol edge sport 10w60 for about 70 USD
The tank with filter took 9 litres - no problem I did not remove the two metal filters (Bypass filters) (car has only done 3000Km since done by agents) based on that i decided not to pull the metal filters out. (thinking / hoping AM did it by the book)
The manual from AM says that during a oil/ filter change it will take 9.5 L or 10 Qts.
Im not sure that it holds that much oil in those chambers you guys refer to? so the theory of diluting old oil with new is not clear to me, in the manual it does say that a new engine will take 13 litres?
any comments? advise
I got 10 L castrol edge sport 10w60 for about 70 USD
quite A bit of oil comes out of the screen elements. not too hard to pull them out . remember, you need a 13mm or so bolt to screw into the filters to be able to wedge them free.... then the oil dumps out of the large hole , so have a catch bowl ready.
the v8 vantage will take about 9.5 quarts to be near full.
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Granite Bay, CA
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Just completed my first oil change on my 07 V8V. Got the kit from astonbits as the ones on eBay didn't have the o-rings I needed for the screens. Overall, not technically difficult but I had a few issues that took longer than expected.
Simply lifting the Aston was a challenge with how low it is and lack of jack points. Cut up some wood to place underneath the jack points to not mar the surface. Once high enough, a jack stand under the subframe was safe. I bought the Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack for the task and it works great. My floor jack is too high.
I was surprised by the amount of oil from the filter screens. Definitely need to be changed. Also, my major issue came from the torx bolts for the filter screen. They were on too tight and I partially stripped one. Thankfully, I still got it off and re installed, but did not torque nearly as tight.
Anyone know where I can find new pre filter torx bolts other than the dealer? I need to replace one and want another as a backup.
Simply lifting the Aston was a challenge with how low it is and lack of jack points. Cut up some wood to place underneath the jack points to not mar the surface. Once high enough, a jack stand under the subframe was safe. I bought the Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack for the task and it works great. My floor jack is too high.
I was surprised by the amount of oil from the filter screens. Definitely need to be changed. Also, my major issue came from the torx bolts for the filter screen. They were on too tight and I partially stripped one. Thankfully, I still got it off and re installed, but did not torque nearly as tight.
Anyone know where I can find new pre filter torx bolts other than the dealer? I need to replace one and want another as a backup.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: NoVa
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Just completed my first oil change on my 07 V8V. Got the kit from astonbits as the ones on eBay didn't have the o-rings I needed for the screens. Overall, not technically difficult but I had a few issues that took longer than expected.
Simply lifting the Aston was a challenge with how low it is and lack of jack points. Cut up some wood to place underneath the jack points to not mar the surface. Once high enough, a jack stand under the subframe was safe. I bought the Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack for the task and it works great. My floor jack is too high.
I was surprised by the amount of oil from the filter screens. Definitely need to be changed. Also, my major issue came from the torx bolts for the filter screen. They were on too tight and I partially stripped one. Thankfully, I still got it off and re installed, but did not torque nearly as tight.
Anyone know where I can find new pre filter torx bolts other than the dealer? I need to replace one and want another as a backup.
Simply lifting the Aston was a challenge with how low it is and lack of jack points. Cut up some wood to place underneath the jack points to not mar the surface. Once high enough, a jack stand under the subframe was safe. I bought the Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack for the task and it works great. My floor jack is too high.
I was surprised by the amount of oil from the filter screens. Definitely need to be changed. Also, my major issue came from the torx bolts for the filter screen. They were on too tight and I partially stripped one. Thankfully, I still got it off and re installed, but did not torque nearly as tight.
Anyone know where I can find new pre filter torx bolts other than the dealer? I need to replace one and want another as a backup.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 599
From: Incline Village, NV
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I did the oil on my v8 Vantage, I removed the under belly plate and removed the screw from the header tank, after driving up on two ramps. Removed the oil filter.
The tank with filter took 9 litres - no problem I did not remove the two metal filters (Bypass filters) (car has only done 3000Km since done by agents) based on that i decided not to pull the metal filters out. (thinking / hoping AM did it by the book)
The manual from AM says that during a oil/ filter change it will take 9.5 L or 10 Qts.
Im not sure that it holds that much oil in those chambers you guys refer to? so the theory of diluting old oil with new is not clear to me, in the manual it does say that a new engine will take 13 litres?
any comments? advise
I got 10 L castrol edge sport 10w60 for about 70 USD
The tank with filter took 9 litres - no problem I did not remove the two metal filters (Bypass filters) (car has only done 3000Km since done by agents) based on that i decided not to pull the metal filters out. (thinking / hoping AM did it by the book)
The manual from AM says that during a oil/ filter change it will take 9.5 L or 10 Qts.
Im not sure that it holds that much oil in those chambers you guys refer to? so the theory of diluting old oil with new is not clear to me, in the manual it does say that a new engine will take 13 litres?
any comments? advise
I got 10 L castrol edge sport 10w60 for about 70 USD
Last edited by dicktahoe; Nov 11, 2015 at 03:22 PM.
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TWS literally only means "ten-w-sixty" (10W60).
The AM workshop manual states Castrol Edge Sport 10W60.
The problem is that Castrol has rebranded and reformulated the oils a few times since it was first introduced.
According to Castrol's data sheets, the current Edge and Edge Professional oils are the same, except that the Pro oil is CO2 neutral:
http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/759619CF22DFFEFA80257E040036C1C6/$File/BPXE-9UYUKM.pdf
http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/7CD992276400222A80257E4A0055B098/$File/BPXE-9WU73P.pdf
And, according to those data sheets, both current Edge and Edge Pro oils are applicable to the M cars.
The AM workshop manual states Castrol Edge Sport 10W60.
The problem is that Castrol has rebranded and reformulated the oils a few times since it was first introduced.
According to Castrol's data sheets, the current Edge and Edge Professional oils are the same, except that the Pro oil is CO2 neutral:
http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/759619CF22DFFEFA80257E040036C1C6/$File/BPXE-9UYUKM.pdf
http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/7CD992276400222A80257E4A0055B098/$File/BPXE-9WU73P.pdf
And, according to those data sheets, both current Edge and Edge Pro oils are applicable to the M cars.
Last edited by telum01; Nov 12, 2015 at 08:08 AM.
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I used Total Quartz racing 10w-60 full synthetic oil I found on Amazon after doing some research. The price has jumped from $120 to $165 since I bought it.
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TWS..which Telum1 explained above "Ten W Sixty", is actually named Castrol Edge Professional TWS. This oil I believe is being discontinued and Castrol has changed to Castrol Edge 10W60, this is the NEW "Approved" oil for the M-Models
..We had a notice about this few months back from Castrol, even had a rep come to inform of the change.
If the above oil is not available, Approved oils are:
Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60, Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 or
Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 (Recommended).
Or: Fully Synthetic
5W-50 or 10W-60 oil to specification ACEA A3/B3
..We had a notice about this few months back from Castrol, even had a rep come to inform of the change.
If the above oil is not available, Approved oils are:
Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60, Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 or
Castrol Formula RS 10W-60 (Recommended).
Or: Fully Synthetic
5W-50 or 10W-60 oil to specification ACEA A3/B3
Last edited by Irish07@VelocityAP; Nov 12, 2015 at 06:14 AM.
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And as if Castrol is not confusing enough, here the come again with "Edge Gold"
Castrol 12535 EDGE Gold 10W-60 Synthetic Motor Oil, 1 L, 12 Pack (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3; A3/B4, Exclusive Approval by BMW, M-models, VW 501 01, VW 505 00, Formerly TWS)
Castrol 12535 EDGE Gold 10W-60 Synthetic Motor Oil, 1 L, 12 Pack (API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3; A3/B4, Exclusive Approval by BMW, M-models, VW 501 01, VW 505 00, Formerly TWS)
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I would never want to seem to contradict Irish, but Castrol is no longer the recommended oil for the BMW M cars. BMW has switched to Shell for their 10w60. Likely Shell paid to be the new "recommend supplier". Shell is using the Pennzoil "Pureplus" formula for natural gas to oil, as the base stock of the new "BMW Twin Power" oil for the non turbo M cars. This oil is available online from Turner Motorsports for 12/Litre. It's certifications meet the API and ACEA requirements for Aston.
Besides the Castrol and Mobil1 Irish listed, My searching also found oil from RedLine and LiquiMoly which meet the API and ACEA requirements for Aston. The Mobil 1 is known to sheer down to 50 weight fairly fast (not saying that's harmful since Aston also approves 5w50). I think I'm going to try the RedLine at this year's change
Besides the Castrol and Mobil1 Irish listed, My searching also found oil from RedLine and LiquiMoly which meet the API and ACEA requirements for Aston. The Mobil 1 is known to sheer down to 50 weight fairly fast (not saying that's harmful since Aston also approves 5w50). I think I'm going to try the RedLine at this year's change
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I'm willing to bet the farm that this is entirely contractual. The Castrol contract expired and Shell offered a sweeter deal to BMW.
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I just feel it's a good reminder to everyone that manufacturers CAN have other motives. What's really important is if the given fluid meets the standards required for the application.
