Yes the 2 small torx bolts that hold the bypass cover plate.

 

Didn't realize it was the cover you were having problems with. Those torx bolts shouldn't be on there that tight.

 

I have used either a small torch to heat up the area, but I dont think that would be a good idea in this case IMO. I have also taken a torx bit and gave it a few taps with a hammer to try to just nudge the screw loose. You could try some penetrating oil too but it might take some time for the oil to creep into the actual screw. I actually like Kroil for a penetrating oil.


you could also try something similar to this, my buddy has used something like this on smaller bolts. again hovever, I dont know how hard you want to be hitting something on the bottom of your engine block

http://www.autotoolworld.com/product...FUFyQgodm3YATg

 

Thanks for the tips.

Yes I dont want to be taking to torch to it because there are the wires for the cats nearby and also the Trox screws attached to the engine block is not something I want to mess around with tapping

A possible solution is to complete oil change + Fram filter without doing by pass filters. So half an oil change in essence.

Then after 500 miles doing another oil change + Fram filter with out the by pass filters. So another half an oil change but including about a quarter of the old oil that will be in the mix.

Then I am left with 2 litres or so of the older oil (just under a quarter of the cars egine oil) still in the car. And do a further oil change in 3000 miles which should bring this down to maybe a litre or so which is neither here nor there.

 

I did the oil on my v8 Vantage, I removed the under belly plate and removed the screw from the header tank, after driving up on two ramps. Removed the oil filter.
The tank with filter took 9 litres - no problem I did not remove the two metal filters (Bypass filters) (car has only done 3000Km since done by agents) based on that i decided not to pull the metal filters out. (thinking / hoping AM did it by the book)
The manual from AM says that during a oil/ filter change it will take 9.5 L or 10 Qts.

Im not sure that it holds that much oil in those chambers you guys refer to? so the theory of diluting old oil with new is not clear to me, in the manual it does say that a new engine will take 13 litres?
any comments? advise

I got 10 L castrol edge sport 10w60 for about 70 USD

 

Interesting. I removed the oil tank resovoir bolt which had a litre and a bit, the filter and the sump drain plug. All in all about 8 litres came out (est). I filled it back up with 9 litres. The colour of the oil after it had been warmed and driven was the same colour as the oil that went in. The old oil that was taken out was a much darker brown. So I am pretty much happy with that.

Incidently, on my test drive the car felt a bit slower. With the new fluids I thought there would be less friction which may add something power if nothing at all.

My only thought is that the oil might of been low which meant it revved up quicker , but this is purely conjecture

 

Has anyone installed an oil catch can on the V12? I am lookimg at the Mishimoto*Baffled Oil Catch Can for my DB9V12.

 

I put a Mishimoto radiator on the STi that I used to have. For a Subaru, it was a decent part given the price-to-performance, but the fitment was terrible. Mishimoto's overall build quality is definitely not something I'd put on an Aston Martin.

 

I just completed my first oil change on my V12V. When I removed the drivers side throttle body, I was quite surprised to see how much oil was in the intake.
I think that a catch can would be a good idea.

 

Hi. What do you mean by intake? Do you mean the oil filter?

 

the intake and oil filter are two very different parts

oil can be sent into the air intake system through venting/re-circulation lines. this is common to all cars. some have more oil than others. if it's bad enough (or if people just want to for peace of mind or bling factor), people install oil catch cans to collect oil that is separated from vented air before it can get into the intake system.

 

i started a new thread for this
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...catch-can.html

 

The Intake manifold.
I haven't noticed any significant oil usage yet, but realistically the rings probably aren't fully seated yet (only about 2700 miles).
I installed a catch can on my TT vette as well as my modded viper as the PCV blow by did make a significant difference on the octane rating of the fuel, but having said that the V12V doesn't have any significant mods to speak of.
A catch can is however cheap peace of mind. The only problem with a catch can on the V12V is very limited engine bay space!

 

i'll be putting a catch can on my V8V next month. if anything, it'll be a good indicator as to how much oil is getting through the AOS and into the intake. even if our cars aren't highly modded, it doesn't mean there isn't an excess of oil getting through the system! after i put the catch can on and get some miles on the car, i'll post my results in the other thread i started (link in my post above).

on the V12V, you might find a spot under the radiator shroud... only place i can think of off the top of my head.

 

I think I may have missed something in doing an Oil Change. I understand R&R the Oil Filter. I understand removing the two small metal filters that are under the small plates held in position by the Torx screws, and cleaning them. I understand removing the Sump plug and draining the Oil from the Sump. Here's what I may have missed, Is there a plug, that is on the Main Oil Tank (where the dip stick cap is installed), that must also be removed to drain Oil from the Main Oil Tank?