Is it just me or
#1
Is it just me or
First off, I have a 2009 Vantage 6sp Man... Every once in a while, I put the key (plastic one) in the ignition, push on the clutch, other foot on the brake but the ignition never turn red which doesn't allow me to start the car. I take the key out and back in again and then it works... sometime I have to do it a few times before the ignition turns red so that I can push on the key and start. It doesn't happen every time so I really don't know what it could be, I first thought that it could be the steering lock but I hear it unlock. Does any one has a clue or is it happening to other people. Thanks
#4
I had this problem with my DB9 (non ecu car). I found it to be the connection on the clutch pedal switch which signals the pedal is fully depressed and car is safe to start.
Switch is located way up under the dash at the pivot point of the pedal basically. You could try reaching under and wiggling the wires with the pedal pressed to see if you get the start button to flicker.. Just a thought. Good luck.
Switch is located way up under the dash at the pivot point of the pedal basically. You could try reaching under and wiggling the wires with the pedal pressed to see if you get the start button to flicker.. Just a thought. Good luck.
Last edited by speedracer800; 04-29-2016 at 10:27 PM.
#5
Thanks all I will investigate a little more time to see if I could identify the cause of the problem but it is pretty hard as it does it about 1 of every 5 starts of so. I will update this post if I find something obvious.
#6
Wasn't there a TSB or recall in the ignition unit for incremental engagement?
I can't remember for sure, but I think I had read something about it somewhere.
Only time my 2012 SS does that is when I don't fully commit to pushing the key with one smooth motion.
I can't remember for sure, but I think I had read something about it somewhere.
Only time my 2012 SS does that is when I don't fully commit to pushing the key with one smooth motion.
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#8
Not the same thing. OP is not asking about the single push, but rather the 2-stage start. While it may be a faulty part, the most frequent cause is overshoot on the initial 1st push to the flush position. The 2 flat finger technique generally solves this issue of no red light.
#10
Not the same thing. OP is not asking about the single push, but rather the 2-stage start. While it may be a faulty part, the most frequent cause is overshoot on the initial 1st push to the flush position. The 2 flat finger technique generally solves this issue of no red light.
#11
Not the same thing. OP is not asking about the single push, but rather the 2-stage start. While it may be a faulty part, the most frequent cause is overshoot on the initial 1st push to the flush position. The 2 flat finger technique generally solves this issue of no red light.
#12
Thanks XJRS, I never thought that I was overshooting the first push but ever since you said that I try to be more careful and use the 2 finger technique and I got a red light and start every time, at least for the last 10 start or so. I will keep my finger crossed (or flat in this case) that it was only a user problem.
#13
Did you push the throttle to the floor prior to engaging the starter? There is a post storage cold cranking feature which temporarily inhibits the fuel injection during cranking. This allows oil pressure to develop thereby delivering lubrication to the top end. Cycling the key will allow for normal starting on the second attempt.
#15
Not the same thing. OP is not asking about the single push, but rather the 2-stage start. While it may be a faulty part, the most frequent cause is overshoot on the initial 1st push to the flush position. The 2 flat finger technique generally solves this issue of no red light.
Thanks
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