Hey Guys,

I am trying to find some info on how to adjust the rear hatch. I have a few issues.

The left to right panel gaps are not equal and I would love to get them looking the same. The picture shows the gap I need to make bigger.

The boot looks like it rubbed at some point on the outer edges of the bumper. I think this must have been fixed already as it now is not touching. I am curious what the gap should be and how much the little rubber adjusters should be turned out. As it stands now the hatch takes a good bit of pressure to latch.

I do have an odd creak that is coming from the back and its not really tied to bad roads. It seems like its effected by shifts in the load on the car, or its creaking on flex. I though this may be the hatch so I treated all the rubber with some silicon spray with no luck.

Thanks for any info.
Daryl

 

There is no easy way to explain how the adjustment works. Essentially if you need to move the trunk lid to the right then loosen ALL bolts and shift the lid right and tighten. It gets complicated when you only loosen one side and move the trunk lid in or out. It's going to be trial and error. Mark hinge locations. Tape the edges of the trunk lid and the corresponding body surfaces to protect them and have a go at it

 

I also had a creak coming from the driver side back and noticed that the rubber adjuster's center spring was pushed in. I unscrew that adjuster all the way out and pushed the spring back at its place and used some plier to squeeze the little cap that hold the spring. For me it fixed the creak for good, as you will see when you open your trunk that those 2 rubber adjuster have that center pin and it is under pressure to keep the trunk lid from creaking

 

I had a creak sometimes when driving over a gully or similar bumps. It took me quite a bit ov playing with the following parts: adjustment screws with rubber insert in the hinges (11mm spanner) and the two bump stoppers at the bottom. It is a trial and error game but I found the right settings.
The described parts also adjust the lid position. So just have 100 and 1 goes at it and it'll be fine.

Cheers

Christian

 

OK, this is what I thought just wanted to make sure.

My pins are fine and as the hatch sits now the rubber stops have a good bit of pressure on them when the hatch is closed. Should the stops be free with only the pin making contact?


Cool, sounds like with a little love I can get this sorted.

Thanks for all the help!
Daryl

 

My rubber stop also touch, this is how you adjust the height of the lid.

 

You need to move the hatch to the right ,,,,,so use masking tape on the body right up against the left side of the hinge . Loosen the bolts and the tape will now give you a visual gap of how far you have moved the hatch . Retighten and try again , CAREFULLY CLOSING THE HATCH . !!!!!!!.

 

I personally wouldn't fuss with the hinges. It appears that you are looking at about a 1 mm gap difference.

Try adjusting the striker plate first; that may give you the small lateral adjustment you need without compromising the rest of the hatch alignment.

It may save you grief later...

 

Thanks for the info

great tips on the tape!

HAHA, I did loosen the top four bolts, in hindsight I think I could have gotten it sorted with just the striker adjustment. The hatch is now looking good but still creaking a bit when the car flexes. Also now the tail light gaps are a bit off, not sure if they can be shifted around to even it all out.