This is what I have found drivers side seat module connector. Pin# 21 Green/Orange Pin# 22 Brown/Red
Passengers seat module connector Pin# 31 Brown/Red Pin# 32 Green/Orange

 

Thank You JDoubleU - thats what we need

chr

 

Slightly off topic - if you want to replace the stock belt with a racing harness, you need:
- another resistor to simulate "belt locked in buckle", or
- you plug the belt behind the seat into the buckle (if you keep the stock belt & buckle installed).

If you just unplug the connector of the buckle, you get a "SLRS (or something similar) Warning" message.
The connector is the individual grey 2-wire (white & brown cable from main loom) on LHD drivers seat.

Just need to measure the resistor(s) - apparently it has 2 different ones, to indicate buckled and unbuckled.

I know because I tried to shut down the annoying "belt-beep" without great success yesterday...

 

TR - we were thinking of just leaving the OEM belt system and somehow re routing and clipping together for track work. We will have to pull the seat anyway to convert the lap belt.

Thoughts ?

x-chr

 

In my track car (not the Vantage) I have both belt systems permanently mounted.
On the road the crutch-belt & buckle gets stuffed trough the seat to the bottom, the lap & shoulder belts are lying behind the seat.
Just takes 5 minutes to be track-ready...

Thomas

 

Ok you jogged my memory. Our plan is to try to mount both lap belts to the seat. I forgot I had posted that above. It will all depend on clearance. Do your belts mount to the chair or the sill on your track car?

chr

 

On my track-car the lap belts are mounted to the sills.
However, IMHO to the seats/rails is also fine, as long as your'e not going for the full racecar/FIA approval.

Thomas

 

We have all the parts we need to install the seats (maybe). We will start dis-assembling the interior on Monday - yippee I can hardly wait We are going to start Monday because we want to run with Stuart in August and as slow as we are we need all the help we can get.

Side note - Stuart thanks for the offer on the light weight - too much risk for both of us



Stuart:
Foot go's to sill or rear bulkhead?
Carpet gets sandwiched ?









Fit it, coat it, final install.

chr

 

We've made some progress on fitting the bar. As a sanity check we removed the minimum amount of panels we need to dry fit . It is a two man operation, but we had it in and out several times today. Ours did not come with instructions so we just make it up as we go.



The side panels and the rear panel need to come out.





Several wiring loom studs need to be removed. We started with a saw -


But ended with a chisel.


L bracket placement. Now I understand why the L brackets are not part of the foot i.e. you would have to disrupt a lot of wiring loom connectors and let us not forget the parking brake cable We assume Riv-nuts to the sill and thru bolt thru the floor.


We pulled the speaker cover on the drivers side to facilitate removal of the back panel. Riv-nuts to back panel.


The foot sits on top of the L bracket (not shown) and is thru bolted thru the floor.


The bar needs to be spread a bit at the bottom to align with the holes in the L brackets. We are thinking of using some 2x6 against the tunnel and some spreader bars to get the holes in the feet to align with the holes in the L brackets.

Pretty good day - only ruined one fir tree

chr

 

We worked on final location today - mostly working on our confidence to start drilling. The further back it sits the better it fits. Notice the stays align on the seam. There are rivets behind both feet. We are going to drill relief holes in the feet so we can leave the rivets. As of now we plan to locate the bar and bolt it in then final locate the stays. We'll shim behind the stay feet so there is no moment induced at the joint offset.

Putting the rear panel back in should be interesting.



Here you can see the bar foot sitting on the L bracket. Our plan now is to bolt down the drivers side then use a bottle jack and some pins to position the passenger foot over the L bracket. You can see we will need to modify the battery cover foot a little to get it to sit flat on the floor.



We installed the CTEK Panel today. It is hard wired to the battery bypassing the OEM wiring. The panel comes with a nice stick on template used to locate, drill, and final size the hole. We covered the area with painters tape and stuck the template to the tape. The panel clipped in very nicely.



The charger plugs right in. The panel has three LEDs to indicate charge.



The wire gets threaded down the right side and drops nicely into the battery.





chr

 

Good progress - fitting a roll bar is always a bit of a PITA...
CTEK plug is a nice touch.

 

Our harness came in so we have been working on fitting it.


Our bar may be the first production piece off of the jig. One thing that is sticking out is the height of the bar relative to the belt openings in the back of the seat. As you can see the bar is too low for our Nagaro. There is a shop across town that does a lot of off road fabrication so we will have them bend a new horizontal and weld it in to correct the height of the Nogaro. The bar needs to be no lower than 20 deg below the opening in the seat. The seat is not bolted in in this picture. We will be doing that in the next couple of days and then setting the appropriate height. I spoke to Stuart about this and he sent me pictures of their first install and the bar was perfect. The problem is in different seats and brackets so you need some measurements off your seats when you order so they can put the bar where you need it. Stuart mentioned not welding the bar in at VAP so customer could put it where the need. This seems like a good solution.



This is a ring I purchased from Schroth. It allows us to run both OEM and harness lap belts without pulling the seat. They are designed to be bent or twisted as needed. There are instructions on Shroth's site.



Installed. In the 1st picture above the OEM receptacle is against the seat. The ring is on the outside of that.


The hole locations for the stays are not good. A solution is for the distance from the flanges to the holes to be located within .050. This should be very do-able. The hole could be slotted as shown in the picture below. This would assure the leg lengths are consistent and the slots allow the flanges to be rotated such that the flanges are parallel to the top of the rear bulkhead. We had to correct one of the legs for length and slotted both. Also the angle of the legs from the hoop down to the rear bulkhead were not consistent. We shortened the legs to get a little vertical movement in the legs when they are inserted into the hoop receptacles.

These are trivial problems easily over come and I am happy with the what we have. I would not want to build this from scratch. It is much easier to fit an existing design.



TR - the CTEK panel is very nice. We reinstalled the boot interior and I am very happy how that all went together.

chr

 

We have been working on mounting the submarine straps. This has taken some time both in study and fabrication. The instructions show to mount the straps 20 deg aft of vertical. Some how I got twisted around and spent several days trying to build 20 off of the horizontal. There is little space under the seat so packaging is difficult. Yesterday we were getting ready to fit our 3rd iteration and finally realized I had it wrong. Good news is it actually helped us some with packaging.


Originally we were going to attach to the floor but it is so thin and the subs needed to go into the raised beam section under the seat. That is very thin. After some study I found that SCCA allows the subs to be attached to the bottom of the seat. I was not able to find a picture of this anywhere so we went on our own.

1) We fabricated an ''H'' shaped bracket out of 1" angle which sits on top of the seat slider and adjacent to the seat frame.
2) We are going to bolt this to the seat frame 3 places horizontal and one vertical at the back on each side.
3) We dropped a vertical line down thru the belt hole and marked a line one inch back from the trailing edge of belt hole in the seat. This gave us the required 20 degrees.
4) Using the angle finder we then rotated the transverse piece of angle to lie co-planar with the 20 degree offset from the trailing edge of the hole in the seat.
5) We used the eye bolts supplied by Schroth.

The problem, if there is one, is that the buckle height uses almost all of the available space and it needs to be in free space. I think it is going to work. I am going to sit in the chair this afternoon with lap and subs buckled and check for clearance. In a collision the belts are trying to come forward so there is plenty of space for that.



As I look at the pictures I do see one problem. The 20 degress should be established by the center line of the eye bolt. We need to move the transverse piece back a bit.



Nice thing is - it looks like we can completely remove the harness from the car when not in use

chr

 

We got our frame finished. I drove an SRF last week and laughed when I saw how the subs were connected to the car. No angle and the belt lengths are fixed so I could not pull them tight if I wanted.


We welded all of the nuts to the frame.


Assembled with blue loctite.





We start drilling the chassis tomorrow.


What a great day. My lap times came down all day with a personal best in the last session. I actually hung with the young guy's. Had it twisted up a few times, but I did not crash it and it was still running when I left

 

pulled passenger seat and installed resistor CHR purchashed. Found Green/Orange, but don’t see a Brown/Red so jumped between Green/Orange and Black (directly next to it). Upon starting the car airbag light immediately came up. Are you able to provide any additional info/picture as my 06’ is missing that brown/red. Thanks.