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Yes they are magnesium. Part numbers are OZ 222206211311 Front 18" x 10" Offset 45, 222206211211 Rear 19" x 10" Offset 48, 222206215811 Front 18" x 10" Offset 45 later specification.
The earlier Speedline wheels are lighter 9.47 KG versus 9.80 KG for OZ on front and 10.12 KG versus OZ 10.20 KG rear.
Interesting to note that the 20" x 11" HRE P101's I have are slightly lighter than the speedline 19" Magnesium race wheels....how is this possible?
Imagine a car made entirely of die cast aluminum parts. Now imagine that exact same car made from die cast magnesium parts. The magnesium car would be 1/3 lighter in weight than its aluminum cousin. The magnesium die cast parts outperform aluminum ones in so many ways. The advantages include:
33% lighter than aluminum.
Similar or greater mechanical properties.
Lower working temperatures extend die life and reduce energy consumption during production.
Machining is faster and easier and machining tools last significantly longer.
Superior thin-walled near net shape casting of larger, more complex parts so there are fewer components and less assembly required.
Interesting to note that the 20" x 11" HRE P101's I have are slightly lighter than the speedline 19" Magnesium race wheels....how is this possible?
In short: a lot of time and money put into the engineering of the wheel by HRE which ultimately resulted in weight saving techniques for the construction of the wheel.
Finishing the ducting has been some work. We lightened the tow point sub-frame and then started working on the integration of an oil cooler duct. I originally used button head screws thru the grill to fasten the end of the NACA duct and it allowed for some good measurements, but was just incorrect.
We modified the design to eliminate the fasteners at the grill and remove the blockage in front of the heat ex-changer caused by the length of the NACA ducts.
Our new design shortens the ducts such that the OC fins are un-obstructed. The partial aluminum shroud attached to the sub-frame creates the roof for the oil cooler duct. The walls will be riveted to the roof and provide us a place to fasten the NACA ducts. The lower engine cover will create the floor. The walls get contoured to accept flush mounting the shortened NACA ducts. The tabs at the end of the aluminum panels attach to the oil cooler brackets using the riv-nuts attached to the tabs.
It has been tedious as each part has to be hand fit, but it is coming along.
Lost track of how many times the bumper cover has been fitted - LOL!
We swapped in the 70% lower screen. We started with plastic wire ties, but settled on smaller diameter safety wire to re-attach to the OEM frame.
We have three sides of the OC duct work done and are finally starting to work on integrating with the lower engine cover. The brake ducts still require location in elevation to match the lower grill opening. We have them at the proper length. They will be riveted to the duct walls using thin wall alum L brackets. We are getting ready to final fit the lower engine cover, bumper cover, and brake ducts as an assembly. The vertical duct walls get shortened to match the profile of the engine cover.
Our engine cover is slightly bent on the passenger side so we have some straightening to do. Can't really see it in the picture - we bent it back by hand. It needs to go on the table with a straight edge and some soft hammers. Looks like it will seal to the oil cooler with no problems.
