Sorry I meant to say engine serial number, which it definitely has. VIN stands for Vehicle Identification number. Aston knows what engine a chassis came with for theft and authenticity reasons just like they know what options and colours it had from the factory. Page 239 of the Grant Neal buyer's guide book explains it well. The number is left side near rear of block. First row is engine code followed by a five digit serial. For example an early 4.7 could read :
AM07 / 01234

Edit to add "it doesn't matter to me what H.O.'s opinion on matching numbers is, but I bet he will have one to satisfy my curiosity!"

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Highly understand your concern with numbers matching. But the Vantages were or area so massively produced that even in 30 years it likely wont make any difference. Maybe on a 5k mile garage queen in 30 years yes, but a driven one no.

Same for DB9s. The Vanquish or very very very low model special editions are likely the last of the value keepers. ie....the old early 2000 Vanquishes.

Some rare limited option Db9s, DBS, are possible to just hold value. IMHO

 

I am really happy for you to have this not be a catostrophic financial burden. Aside from that, I am extremely concerned with changing my own oil using AM filters. I have 4 now. Its just that obviously possibly 1 off situation. It would financially ruin me, and likely alot of members here. So the 1.2k cost of annual service seems almost like a small warranty so to speak.

 

No, I am not happy to lose the original block, I've been asking everybody if there is any way I can keep it. It will come down to if AM is going to require it back to do a post mortem or if they have enough data already and don't need another. Since the block "might" be the only part of the engine still good they may not want it back for the expense of returning it to Cologne for reman, and in that case they would require a scrap receipt to refund the core charge. If that happens I have a chance to get my block, if they want it back for post mortem the expense in getting it back would be far too high. The core charge alone is $15,000 so that's not exactly viable either.

 

Wow, missed a bunch of replies [not getting the emails].


The engine number is actually at the top of the cars original window sticker, It's pretty easy to tell it's not original, and the fact it will say "engine replaced" on the Carfax would be a big tip it wasn't original, if I could save the block or not. You can also tell by looking at the intake manifold it's been acid dipped or something, it does not have the same look as a non reman intake.


That was why I was recommending doing the service at the dealer, if possible. I know if you live 500 miles from the closest AM service department shipping a car for an oil change just seems crazy, and my solution would be for AM to "authorize" certain Jag and LR dealers to do factory authorized service on their cars because there may not be an AM dealer for 1000 miles but there will be a Jag dealer a whole lot closer.


But if you live close enough it doesn't make any sense taking the risk and not having it dealer serviced.

 

If it's the newer version intake it doesn't have the indentation to mount the "wings" make sure you get the nice emblem off the old one.

 

There's the spot where the wings would go but there are no wings on it. Can you tell from the pics last page which version it is?


Is there a date code embedded in the engine block number?

 

Assuming, like most MFG companies, there are a ton of updates and upgrades as a product ages and is in the marketplace, I'd suspect even if the parts look identical, that engine is superior to what came out. On my prior V12S which engine blew up, that buyer is very pleased with the new engine, and since it was a very early V12S, I'm sure it's been updated also to be what the 2017's are.

 

They're not "new" engines because they have not built them in 2 years. They're remanufactured, and where do you get engines to reman? Junk yards, car breakers, lemon law cars, etc. The spec of the reman may be up to current but I don't know how intense the reman is. It may be as simple as they check the clearances, throw in some new bearings and rings, do a valve job, clean it up, and out the door it goes. In which case it's just a pretty engine on the outside but could be a 60,000 mile engine that passed inspection on the inside.


Then again, it could be a complete rebuild, bored 20 over, crank cut down 10, new pistons and cams, and how do you know exactly what you have??


If there's a date code on the block at least it tells you that much, but doesn't answer any of the rest of the questions.


That he got his engine that fast also, Aston must have stepped up its US supply chain for availability since they put the clamps on the sale of cheaper parts outside dealer networks.

 

The V12S engine was new. Don't know anything really about the older 4.3 engine you have but I guess it makes sense it might be a rebuilt one.

 

4.7 but I was told it would be a remanufactured, and that they were done in Cologne where the original engines were built.

 

Hey---as long as the stall issue does not come back. It is a start in the right direction.

 

If only, remember the stalling they ascribe to CPU software on fuel management and delivery, which has nothing to do with what engine is in the car.

 

Looks like you are well on top of all possibilities.
Can't change the past and an engine swap is the best way to go.
Thanks for the tip on the window sticker, I'll have to get a copy of mine.
We will be watching the progress - wishing you and your ride good luck and all the best.

 

From the day they approved the engine I was asking all the questions to try and keep my block, including having my engine rebuilt. Which is great in theory but in practice is probably 6 months no car, you see how the engine has to come out so that has to go back together so they can store the car during the wait. All of it made that idea just untenable. My only half decent option is if they decide they have enough data from others and don't need this engine back, and if it's scrapped I could buy it that way. After all it could have spun a bearing in the bottom end and not be useable anyway, but while I think it was just starving the top end I'd assume the bottom wasn't getting full flow either.