Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

Rapide no audio

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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 06:48 PM
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Rapide no audio

Hello, I have a puzzling issue. I left the 2011 Rapide unattended for about 2 weeks. The battery drained to the point of not being able to fully turn over. I use a jump pack on the remote terminals and the car starts no problem with the addition of a few issues. At first, I had tons (seriously, tons) of the usual error messages, windows not working etc. But this time I had a totally dead drivers seat switch panel (no memory or movement in any direction) and the radio would not turn on. The screen says "bang and olufsen" but the tweeters do not raise and I cannot turn on RSE or anything. I do have all door chimes and parking sensor beeps. But the strange part is theres a short lived static hiss coming randomly from random speakers, even with the car off. It's similar to the type of short lived buzz you would get to play through the speakers by touching the end of an aux cord. I also seemed to get the static more when pressing the "phone" button (which also did nothing) or attempting to adjust the dead drivers seat. Other issues I have read about on the forums include a bad CD changer (mine seemed to function fine as detailed below) or a failed sirus module which I find hard to believe, as i was just using it and it was functioning perfectly before the battery went low. To remedy this issue I have disconnected the battery, reconnected after 30 mins, checked the fuses, and put the car on the charger all night. After I reconnected the battery and started the car I heard the CD changer moving around, so I popped a disc in it to see if it would play. It accepted the disc and ejected with no issue that one time, but now it is just as dead as the rest of the audio system related stuff. Theres still no audio, however everything else that was malfunctioning came back. This is an absolutely ridiculous amount of issues for a low battery, and I'm not sure where to turn to now. Thanks.
 

Last edited by 08moonbeam; Jan 16, 2021 at 06:55 PM.
Old Jan 16, 2021 | 09:49 PM
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Have you tested or replaced the battery yet?
 
Old Jan 16, 2021 | 11:31 PM
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The battery is less than a year old, and it tested as "good, recharge" so I simply charged it
 
Old Jan 16, 2021 | 11:32 PM
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The battery is less than a year old, and it tested as "good, recharge" so I simply charged it
I did get the radio to turn on for a moment while driving, it loaded CDs and allowed me to tune through the stations and adjust the volume but no sound came out and it only lasted for a few minutes before going back to not working entirely
 
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 08:09 AM
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I've had numerous electrical gremlins appear and never completely disappear after jump starting my other cars in years past.
One recommendation is to never jump start if possible. Trickle charge if the battery is ever dead is safer.

Second, even if the battery is new, the battery may be permanently injured if drained too low. You would need to check the voltage to be sure.
 
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 08:19 AM
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Thanks everyone, I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and replace the battery again. It's strange that a ~year old AGM battery would be irreparably damaged after 2 weeks but it's not impossible. At least I got a small glimmer of hope yesterday when everything came back for a second, so I'm HOPING that indicates a voltage issue and hopefully not a phyisically fried component on the MOST system like I was reading about on here. I'll report back after the battery change but if that doesn't solve it, I'd say I'm in trouble.
 
Old Jan 23, 2021 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 08moonbeam
Thanks everyone, I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and replace the battery again. It's strange that a ~year old AGM battery would be irreparably damaged after 2 weeks but it's not impossible. At least I got a small glimmer of hope yesterday when everything came back for a second, so I'm HOPING that indicates a voltage issue and hopefully not a phyisically fried component on the MOST system like I was reading about on here. I'll report back after the battery change but if that doesn't solve it, I'd say I'm in trouble.

ALOT of issues with exotic cars come from batteries and the fact the cars sit for extended periods of time. All of these are electrical problems. Sometimes it causes damage, most of the time its just due to the battery not being replaced. Get a new one in it ----- Search for a battery change out thread, I think there are some tips to help on that somewhere on this forum.

I would almost assume your issues will go away after the batt change.
 
Old Mar 8, 2021 | 04:22 PM
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Update- still having issues

Hey everyone, i know it's been a little while but i finally got home and was able to replace the battery. Same issue. However in some further testing, i found that i don't have power to 6 fuses in the rear boot fuse box. I have not tested the underhood box but have tested the interior fuse box under the left rear (LHD) seat, and every fuse tested good with power in there. So in the trunk/boot fuse box box, i need to know why I'm not getting power to 6 fuses.
I have attached a very crude picture where i tried to point out the fuses that are bad, I'd love to be able to tell you what the fuses are, but i have no diagram and cannot find one speicifc to the rapide no matter how much i try, just older DB9s. The fuses that have no power are:
the 10A and 5A fuses towards the end of the top row, but the last 25A in the top row has power, i circled it by mistake. In the bottom row, i have no power in the front two 10A, and the 3rd to last 30A and the last 5A that have the arrows to them. Is there some fuseable link that could have burned out? All other functions of the car work as normal, just can't get the radio to turn on past the "Bang and Olufsen" logo, cannot get the nav screen up (but the button turns amber when you select it) and the tweeters don't raise and I cannot use the rear seat entertainment.
Pretty stumped, but i have some knowledge and tools to get most things done without the dealer...just figured I'd check here first, as there's almost NO literature about this car online, and I cannot find the owners manual.


 

Last edited by 08moonbeam; Mar 8, 2021 at 04:26 PM.
Old Mar 8, 2021 | 05:56 PM
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Have you tried the AM app for iPhone or android? It has the owners book which has fuse descriptions in it.
 
Old Mar 9, 2021 | 05:37 AM
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Have you brought it to the dealer? Just swapping the battery is not enough on these cars. There are settings that must be handled with AM computers. I had to replace a battery and was a bit of job on my Rapide. I would also only use the OEM battery so you can rule things that the AGM could introduce.
 
Old Mar 10, 2021 | 02:30 PM
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Thanks so much for the app suggestion- i had no idea such an app existed and i am beyond happy to have an owners manual to reference now. Thanks again. However, i checked the rear fuse diagram, and the fuses that were not receiving power were four unused ones, and the two 10A fuses were for the folding seat back release. But that doesn't make sense, i have triple checked it with a test light and the 2 fuses for the seatbacks have no power- yet they both release and latch as normal. That makes no sense. I have tried removing the fuses and going for a drive....but the other part that makes no sense is, i have removed four fuses from the boot fuse box that control the audio system/ amp/ MMI...and i still have a door chime. Removing all the fuses labed audio changed absolutely nothing, it behaves the same way. That is very confusing, the radio should not even be on if the fuse is out, but even if it's off some other circuit, shouldn't the fuses for the audio amp have shut my door chime off? Or is that just a separate, dedicated chime unit that's not run through the audio system? I have not gone to the dealer, I would see that as a last resort. I was quoted $300 to "diagnose" my seat issue after a battery disconnect but i was able to reset it for free by pushing the buttons in a certain way. That's almost borderline insulting in my book, had i taken it to the dealer I would have paid them at least $300 to literally just push the buttons. That's why i am exhausting every possibility before that. It's safe to say with all the battery charging and replacing I've done, the battery voltage is no longer the issue. The car spins that starter faster than it ever did. If this were a normal car we were talking about, i could have likely found and pulled some schematics/ diagrams online and traced the issue right away. But on this car, the information doesn't even seem to exist. If i have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer then i will, im just extremely disappointed with a situation like this that could potentially be an easy fix, but you're forced to shell out hundreds for someone to do basic diagnostic stuff that anybody can do...the only difference is they just have the software. Any techs in here that would be able to enlighten me about any possible resets?
 
Old Mar 10, 2021 | 04:26 PM
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