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  #106  
Old 07-22-2009, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
Your questions was answered as it relates to why warm up the leather. You must remember, the leather should really only get to be as warm as your body temp. You don't want to actually apply the conditioner in the sun. As long as it's warm to the touch, you're in the ball park.

As for coated and non-coated leather, I honestly cannot tell you they react differently. IMHO, you'd be foolish not to clean and condition your leather on a routine basis. It's like saying your car has a clear coat, so no need to wax it. Your body oils, lotions, dirt, etc. begin to wear down the leather no matter which type of hide you have. So, just remember to routinely clean and condition the leather and you don't have to worry about it aging or cracking on you.
How much protecting do leather conditioners actually do though? The Leather Masters system offers a separate "conditioner" and protectant.
 
  #107  
Old 07-22-2009, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan1
How much protecting do leather conditioners actually do though? The Leather Masters system offers a separate "conditioner" and protectant.
Depends on the leather conditioner. There are products out there that contain natural conditioners like aloe, vitamin e, and natural preservative called glycerin. I just notice once I clean the leather and then condition it, no matter what brand of hide, the leather feels softer and looks richer. I know when I use to take chemistry classes in college, anytime there is a change in physical property of matter, it is a result of a reaction. I think the oils and preservatives in leather conditioner replenish the natural oils that were once in the hide. This increases the pliability, therefor, the leather can withstand wear and tear better.
 
  #108  
Old 07-29-2009, 09:22 AM
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  #109  
Old 08-02-2009, 03:27 PM
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Moe,
I see you are a ZYMOL distributor or whatever is there a wax you recommend that's alittle easier to work with?
Thanks
 
  #110  
Old 08-02-2009, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by indyvegman
Moe,
I see you are a ZYMOL distributor or whatever is there a wax you recommend that's alittle easier to work with?
Thanks
We no longer are affiliated or sell zymol...I've been meaning to change my signature banner.

What kind of wax are you looking for? Easier in what aspect.
 
  #111  
Old 08-02-2009, 09:51 PM
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Moe, you are right about having not take care of a leather like clear coat and wax. In my way of describing it, "It's like going out side bare skin with out Sun Block. Awaiting to get skin damage,
 
  #112  
Old 08-02-2009, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Linko4
Moe, you are right about having not take care of a leather like clear coat and wax. In my way of describing it, "It's like going out side bare skin with out Sun Block. Awaiting to get skin damage,
That's a good way of putting it as well.
 
  #113  
Old 08-03-2009, 01:35 PM
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Now that we are on the subject of leather care, I have a question regarding applying leather conditioner to surfaces with different colored stitching (specifically yellow stitching on black leather). How in the world do you keep the yellow yarn from absorbing the leather conditioner and changing color? It is starting to look very nasty! I have been very careful on using CLEAN pads for the application. I noticed that on heavy usage surfaces (seat belt rubbing on the leather/yellow stitch), that the yellow is actually turning black. I gave up applying conditioner due to this. Moe, you know my car, as you have done the interior twice now. Can't use Autoglym, as the stitching is too small for any cleaning impact. HELP!!! Thank you.
 
  #114  
Old 08-03-2009, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by chardonet
Now that we are on the subject of leather care, I have a question regarding applying leather conditioner to surfaces with different colored stitching (specifically yellow stitching on black leather). How in the world do you keep the yellow yarn from absorbing the leather conditioner and changing color? It is starting to look very nasty! I have been very careful on using CLEAN pads for the application. I noticed that on heavy usage surfaces (seat belt rubbing on the leather/yellow stitch), that the yellow is actually turning black. I gave up applying conditioner due to this. Moe, you know my car, as you have done the interior twice now. Can't use Autoglym, as the stitching is too small for any cleaning impact. HELP!!! Thank you.
Whenever going over any stitching on leather, you should come close to the stitching but not directly over it. Using a foam applicator, apply the conditioner on the major parts of the seat, and at the end, when there's only residual product in the pad, should you go around the stitching. The reason is, once you begin to wipe down the seats to even out the look, you're going to safely go over all the stitching with the towel and even everything around the stitching as well.

The autoglym should work Naoto. Spray it directly on the stitching, let it sit for about 30 seconds, and then use a soft bristle toothbrush to very gently agitate the stitching in one direction. Then use your towel to wipe things down. Give it a try...if that doesn't work, I'll make a house call
 
  #115  
Old 08-03-2009, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
Whenever going over any stitching on leather, you should come close to the stitching but not directly over it. Using a foam applicator, apply the conditioner on the major parts of the seat, and at the end, when there's only residual product in the pad, should you go around the stitching. The reason is, once you begin to wipe down the seats to even out the look, you're going to safely go over all the stitching with the towel and even everything around the stitching as well.

The autoglym should work Naoto. Spray it directly on the stitching, let it sit for about 30 seconds, and then use a soft bristle toothbrush to very gently agitate the stitching in one direction. Then use your towel to wipe things down. Give it a try...if that doesn't work, I'll make a house call
Moe, Thank you for the quick response. As you can attest, with the current state of my mind, I don't have the patience required to do the work. I may give you a call very soon. Thanks again.
 
  #116  
Old 08-03-2009, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by chardonet
Moe, Thank you for the quick response. As you can attest, with the current state of my mind, I don't have the patience required to do the work. I may give you a call very soon. Thanks again.
You're welcome Sir...you know where to find me.
 
  #117  
Old 08-11-2009, 05:12 PM
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Hi Moe:

What is the proper way to clean/wash your wool duster? I picked up some road grime, and this transferred onto the duster when I used it after a drive. Thank you in advance!
 
  #118  
Old 08-11-2009, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by chardonet
Hi Moe:

What is the proper way to clean/wash your wool duster? I picked up some road grime, and this transferred onto the duster when I used it after a drive. Thank you in advance!
There's a new soap we're testing and it should be on the shelf shortly...you'll be able to wash the duster, let it air dry, and be back in business. I'll let you know in the next few day.
 
  #119  
Old 08-24-2009, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
There's a new soap we're testing and it should be on the shelf shortly...you'll be able to wash the duster, let it air dry, and be back in business. I'll let you know in the next few day.
Hi Moe:

Any updates? I will need soon, or will need to clean the duster with some other method you may recommend. Thanks.
 
  #120  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chardonet
Hi Moe:

Any updates? I will need soon, or will need to clean the duster with some other method you may recommend. Thanks.
You'll have it this week Naoto. We're finishing up the labels for the bottles as we speak.
 


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