Detailing Paint, body, detailing and waxing.

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  #166  
Old 12-30-2009, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
1. If you have very hard water, then use the CR all the way. You can extend the life of the resin by using a pressure washer. Most pressure washers have an output of 1.5-2 GPM. This is much better than the CR's 4.5 GPM output of the dic/diw 20. Inexpensive pressure washers from Lowe's or Home Depot should be around $150.

2. I don't care for detail sprays as lubes. I find the wax or lubricants in the solution tend to minimize the effectiveness of the clay. And yes...certain soaps do break down the plasticizers in the clay. Use the lube that the clay manufacturer recommends. So, whatever clay you bought, use their lube.
Thanks for the info, Moe. I'm going to pick up a pressure washer from Harbor Freight. As for the lube, I got clay from Chemical Guys. Of course, they recommend their lube. Seeing as the shipping to get the lube is as much as the product, I'm going to use something else. I've read some people using ONR. What are your thoughts on that stuff?
 
  #167  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:42 PM
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Clear bra material

Hi Moe,

Do you have any opinion on 3M vs. VentureShield clear bra materials?

Any helpful hints for detailing vehicles with a bra besides taping seams before waxing?
 

Last edited by zotbot; 01-02-2010 at 01:05 AM.
  #168  
Old 01-02-2010, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bonehead
Thanks for the info, Moe. I'm going to pick up a pressure washer from Harbor Freight. As for the lube, I got clay from Chemical Guys. Of course, they recommend their lube. Seeing as the shipping to get the lube is as much as the product, I'm going to use something else. I've read some people using ONR. What are your thoughts on that stuff?
I've never used ONR for lube. The best way to find out if your lube is compatible is to make your solution and drop a piece of clay in it. Leave it over night and see if the clay falls apart or stays in once piece.
 
  #169  
Old 01-02-2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by zotbot
Hi Moe,

Do you have any opinion on 3M vs. VentureShield clear bra materials?

Any helpful hints for detailing vehicles with a bra besides taping seams before waxing?
Both clear films are excellent and have their advantage. 3M film is a bit thicker which can be interpreted as being a bit more durable. According to my friends at Detailing Dynamics, 3M film is easier to fix as well if you have swirls or bird dropping that land on the the film.

Venture Shield is also an excellent film and it happens to be the brand my installers use. I notice a bit less orange peel with venture and it seems it's a bit easier to install as well. Either way, I don't think you can go wrong with either film. It's the installer that is most important. Take your time and do your homework on the installer. Go see some of their work and decide for yourself what the best options are.

As for caring for the film, simply treat it as if it were paint. Just don't use waxes that contain yellow carnauba. I recommend cleaning the paint with a mild paint cleanser like swissvax cleaner fluid or P21S Paintwork cleanser. Hope this helps.
 
  #170  
Old 01-03-2010, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MoeMistry
Just don't use waxes that contain yellow carnauba.
Hi Moe,

Could you suggest some of the waxes that do NOT contain yellow carnauba?

Thanks for any info.
 
  #171  
Old 01-07-2010, 08:56 AM
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Inside of wheels...?

Don't know if this question was asked or not, I was lazy and didn't read through the entire thread yet

2002 996TT with OEM hollow spokes... The outside of the wheels is nice and smooth and polished and they clean up easily. The insides of the rims, however, are very dirty. No matter how hard I scrub, I can't seem to get them as clean as the outsides. It even feels like the surface is rough and porous compared to the outside. What's the best way to really make the insides of the rims shine, and how do you protect them afterwards? I'm to the point where I'm going to wet sand them and then prime/paint/clear them
 
  #172  
Old 01-08-2010, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SKXF430
Hi Moe,

Could you suggest some of the waxes that do NOT contain yellow carnauba?

Thanks for any info.
The way I treat the clear film, I'm assuming that's what you'd like to know, it polish with a mild paint cleanser like Swissvax Cleaner Fluid or P21S Paintwork Cleanser, and then apply a spray wax like einszett Spray Wax. The liquid Spray waxes work very well on the film and won't discolor it.
 
  #173  
Old 01-08-2010, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by g8rdmd
Don't know if this question was asked or not, I was lazy and didn't read through the entire thread yet

2002 996TT with OEM hollow spokes... The outside of the wheels is nice and smooth and polished and they clean up easily. The insides of the rims, however, are very dirty. No matter how hard I scrub, I can't seem to get them as clean as the outsides. It even feels like the surface is rough and porous compared to the outside. What's the best way to really make the insides of the rims shine, and how do you protect them afterwards? I'm to the point where I'm going to wet sand them and then prime/paint/clear them
Use P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner. Rinse the wheels, spray the gel, let it sit for about 3-5 minutes depending on how bad the wheels are. Repeat until the desired results are achieved.

You can also take a picture, and I can better diagnose your situation. The rough texture of the interior of your wheels could be a result of permanent damage. Do you use a wheel cleaner routinely now?
 
  #174  
Old 01-09-2010, 01:53 PM
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Hi Moe, thanks for the reply. I've had the car a little over a year and have only ever used the P21S...I don't know what was used before, though--I tend to think it was something a little too caustic. Next time I take the wheels off, I'll take a picture and post it up. I guess I'm gonna need a couple gallons of P21S
 
  #175  
Old 01-10-2010, 04:43 PM
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Car Washes in South OC

Hi,
Are there any 'hand wash' places you woudl recommend over others in the South OC area?

thanks.

Marc
 
  #176  
Old 01-17-2010, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mkaraoglan
Hi,
Are there any 'hand wash' places you woudl recommend over others in the South OC area?

thanks.

Marc
Depends on where you are Marc. There's a great Chevron in Aliso Viejo off Pacific Park and Aliso Viejo Pkwy that does great hand jobs....on cars that is
 
  #177  
Old 01-25-2010, 08:49 AM
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Moe, wanted to take this opportunity to thank you for your great advise and coaching through-out the years. You have a wealth of knowledge man that can only come from "Just doing It' vs. theory.

I have been using good old fashioned saddle soap to clean and maintain my leather interior for years. Sure I use it on my saddles and tack as well; The question is on the finishing I use a very light coating of clear tanning saddle oil that I use for the saddles as well. From your perspective is that a big No No for the leather interior?

Results seems to be just fine but, as a elder I always have a thirst for knowledge and find that gentleman like yourself to be the wilkpedia of Car Detailing!

Once again, thanks Moe for all your great tips and advise!! Continued success to you and your business.. Regards, Kenny/Pops
 

Last edited by SmoothCab; 01-25-2010 at 08:52 AM.
  #178  
Old 01-25-2010, 05:58 PM
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Moe,

can you contact me about the new products??? I have some questions!

Jen
 
  #179  
Old 02-19-2010, 10:17 PM
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Moe...I am getting advised by a detailer (friend of mine...good guy) to go with a paint protectant product that I am not familiar with. It is called something like Zylon or similar (but definitely not zymol). Apparently you heat a portion of the car surface with a heat gun...apply product and it cures very rapidly. Result is a bonded layer above the clear that protects from chemical damage to the clear (bird poop, water spots, etc.).
What is your take on this approach? Is this what is called PPS?
Any info would be appreciated.
 
  #180  
Old 02-21-2010, 07:24 AM
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Hey Moe,
I have some wheels that I acquired recently. They are in nearly mint condition save for a few clear coat scratches and tar spots.
Here are some pictures:
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Now I have cleaned them personally with P21s gel w/ a boar's hair brush. This removed all the dirt and loose contaminants, but I have lots of small tar specks that are still adherent to the lips. Now the center of the wheels are painted and clear coated but the lips are bare cut aluminum which also have clear coat (as you can see in the second picture).

I am not sure how to go about removing the tar, which are like <1 to 1.5 mm spots on the aluminum lips of my wheels. I briefly tried to use some crappy meguiars clay (only thing I had around at the time) to remove it and it didn't work. I was bad and tried to use my finger nail to scratch at one larger tar spot to see what would happen and it seems like I got a clump of it off the paint but obviously didn't try to go any deeper lest I ruin my wheels.

I want to say that something like Stoner's Tarminator will be able to dissolve the spots, but I'm afraid that it will ruin the clear coat as Volk wheels tend to have fragile finishes. They spots are small and not even noticeable at normal viewing distances but they bug me. Any advice on products to use or whether or not to just clean them up with P21 and seal them with a polymer (Zaino is what I have currently)?
 

Last edited by stradaONE8; 02-21-2010 at 07:26 AM.


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