The Old Wastegate Issue
The Old Wastegate Issue
I wish someone can give me a straight forward process to adjust the wastgates, I hear some measure the length of threaded rod at the end equally, but know of some that say when measured with pressure testing the rod can be uneven at the end. I know Kevin has a write up, and this is a measuring process also. What's the real deal?
The way I done it once was make sure the gate was closed then measured 3mm back (so there was 3mm pull on the gate with the rod) and locked it up at that!
I have k24's and the 1bar spring wastegate and starting from scratch again.
The way I done it once was make sure the gate was closed then measured 3mm back (so there was 3mm pull on the gate with the rod) and locked it up at that!
I have k24's and the 1bar spring wastegate and starting from scratch again.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ate+adjustment
I set mine to .005" movement at 12 psi, this gives 1.3 bar at WOT, I used a very accutate 0-15 psi air guage and a small hand operated air pump.
I set mine to .005" movement at 12 psi, this gives 1.3 bar at WOT, I used a very accutate 0-15 psi air guage and a small hand operated air pump.
Thanks for this Derboost, I knew a few would hardly reply to this as the thread has been beaten to death, but the reason I posted was there are so many conflicting threads that it just don't make any bloody sense at all! Thanks again
I took a dial caliper and set up mine (K16/24s) as Kevin suggested... 32MM from the back of the most forward nut (closest to the spring housing) to the end of the rod. I then took a motiv brake bleeder and cut the hose with the master cylinder cap off (I'll reconnect it with a brass adapter) and used the motive to provide pressure to the actuator. I measured the right unit with 8 pounds of pressure and captured the movement with a dial indicator with a magnetic base. Be prepared to remove the heat sheild on the right side turbo to get to the rod. I measured .005 movement... I moved to the right side and set it up with the same amount of pressure and got .004. So I adjusted that rod out a hair and got it to .005!
I'm now boosting a solid 1.1 and flashing 1.2 boost. I'll wait until I get Kevin's clutch upgrade before I try to get a solid 1.2 boost at WOT consitantly.
So you need a dial caliper, a ruler with milimeters indicated to help baseline everthing is nice too. A dial indicator, and a way to get a steady state of pressure to the wastegates. Using the motiv with some vacuum tubing and a stepdown adapter seemed to work well for me.
Mike
I'm now boosting a solid 1.1 and flashing 1.2 boost. I'll wait until I get Kevin's clutch upgrade before I try to get a solid 1.2 boost at WOT consitantly.
So you need a dial caliper, a ruler with milimeters indicated to help baseline everthing is nice too. A dial indicator, and a way to get a steady state of pressure to the wastegates. Using the motiv with some vacuum tubing and a stepdown adapter seemed to work well for me.
Mike
I'm sure it's not that critical. just if you want to really dial them in mucho get's them homed.
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I do know that when building all our smallblock twin turbo motors it was imperative to the tune that the turbo's were running the exact same pressure. When they were connected to a common intercooler, it did not matter, but with 2 separate coolers it was a must. If the pressure was not the same you had the 2 banks of the engine with different egt's, thus 2 different fuel maps,timing curves, ect etc etc.......just my 2 cents....
The 2 banks for the 996TT are joined by the Y-pipe before entering the engine through the throttle body. This way the pressure/boost is equally distributed into the engine so the EGTs should be perfect for each side. No harm if the turbo wastegate adjustments are off a little.
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