Those values are right where you want them for the moment. You still should put some mileage, at least 50 preferably 100 miles, on it and then recheck. If you stay within single digit ST and LT trims (<10%), you're good.

 

Ok now im understanding why i had hiccups so before my car was in the -20 ST fuel trim and because of that when i hit the throttle i was fouling my plugs because i was so rich? Once the fuel leaned out from me moving down the road then no more fouling plugs.

Now my fuel trims are lowered and i have no hiccups i can rev up all the way at idle. Interesting.......

 

Keith, drop the 5 bar and have Shuan to install 60 lb injectors. Run a Greddy profec b
ebc and install a SpeedTech Y pipe. Then get rid of those godawful anchors you call
20 inch rims and replace with a set of lightweight 18 inchers. TOYO r888s

And convert to rwd. You will run mid to low 6 second 60-130 and mid 10s @ 135ish
1/4 mile.

 

Well, what do I know

 

Durametric is way overated theres so many other companies that are better like uscan. It showed me exactly where my problem is.

 

Already on that today lol calling butler they said a forged wheel is the best for performance.

 

Hmm thats odd maybe the idle going back to normal on that last tune fixed it. Whatever it did its all fixed i just drove it again no hicups or studdering. Maybe the file didnt upload right on my end? The trims at idle went from -20.3 to -3.8

What does that mean boost changes less? Also do you want some new runs so you can retweak it or you just going to send the tweak file?


Thx Tony for the support ill do some test drives again in an hour.

 

Ok guys sorry on the data from before i posted the wrong idle fuel trim numbers they were the old ones heres the new one on the right and old one on the left look at the difference. Now i don't burn rich anymore also when i floor it i don't see grey smoke.


It's like a new animal........... ohh my spool in 3rd gear i was at full boost around 3k. So far no P0175 and P0172 codes and i drove 30 miles.

 

You care to tell me what USCAN will show more than Durametric could?

You posted screenshots. Can USCAN log multiple values over time and write it to a file, like Duramtric does? That would add time to the data stream.

Randy will for sure take care for you and assist you in logging.

Andreas

 

Fuel trims

Ignition angle

Miss fire

All pressure sensors

It shows all 4 O2 sensors

RPM

Load

Theres so much more it shows just giving you the basics. You can't write with durametric.

Hey yes it can it logs 40 values also you don't need a cable all you need is your phone it comes with a little gadget that hooks up to your obd2 port and you can leave it there forever. It shows live graphs also shows when theres a problem it will automaticly freeze the numbers to show where the problem is. It shows when your in closed loops and then go into open loop. It's really cool.......

 

Of course you can write with Durametric. That's what logging is all about and you posted a sample here yourself.

All values you named are available in Durametric as well.

But probably something can be learned: can you post a logging file of your uscan here? I would like to see the time resolution of the sampling data.

 

Sure but writing and logging are to different things. Writing is like my flash being loaded. Ill get you some data later today if it stops raining lol.

 

Not sure where you got your info, but Durametric will log all of those parameters, in real time, no less. You absolutely CAN log with Durametric (I did 3 logs today alone), with excellent resolution (YMMV based on the intrinsic resolution of your computer). Although the acquired parameters are labeled differently (i.e. ST trims are labeled adaptation range (RKAT) and LT trims are labeled adaptation range (FRA)... those may be reversed, can't remember off the top of my head), EVERY SINGLE PARAMETER YOU LISTED is included in Durametric, AND MANY MORE. You are definitely deluded if you think your iphone/android/windows app is better, or has better resolution, than Durametric. If you're talking about WRITING (i.e. changing code) to the ECU, I'd like to see your source for that info. Writing software for Porsches is $Texas$.

For God's sake!!! Stop disregarding the recommendations you've been given in this thread and follow some advice!!! I (and many others, including your tuner) have tried to steer you in the right direction though out this cluster f#@k of a thread, only to met with resistance from YOU at every corner. This is not rocket science.

GET SOME ACCURATE DATA, REAL TIME, USING A PROVEN METHOD (i.e. Durametric). It's really a simple process. All of your problems could be (and could've been) solved in a short time if you had just followed the plethora of correct advice you've received, in many cases, multiple times, during this thread.

I don't mean to sound condescending, but I've seen more than a few "car guys" (like you) across multiple platforms that post problem after problem and fail to heed the advice they've been given (like you) only to find, at the end, that all of their problems would have been solved had they just followed the recommendations they received (and asked for). It's obvious that you don't completely understand your car's mechanical inner workings... and that's OK. BUT, to monopolize a thread (it's 10+ pages, for f*$ks sake) and still not have resolution (due to your own ignorance) is ridiculous!

I'm unsubscribing... good luck with your car. Hope you learn to listen.

 

Well have some crappy news found the fuel issue. Well i opened the trunk to see what the smell of fuel is and its not on the left side its on the right side where the FPR is. Well i stuck my hand way back there and felt fuel on the FPR. I guess it's not in seated in right.

 

i think i said something to this effect about 2 weeks ago