Whats the benefit of having the gt3 oil dip stick?
I monitor my oil level through my dash..

 

i tend to not trust electronics. i like to be able to pop the oil cap off pull the dipstick and physically look at the oil and the oil level. i guess its just the old dude in me! you know like how the low level oil sensor always goes bad for no reason?

 

Alright . Motor is in and so are some of the components. Fabwork is getting done . Unfortunately we have a set back, one of the Tial turbos seems to have a problem when Spinning the wheel. It seems as if it touching and Garth can't pinpoint where exactly..

But thanks to SamboTT, he arranged a return label to Tial to have them inspected before we run the car.

 

Nice. Can't wait to see mine in that same position.

 

Thank you. Why is Garth building your car as well?

 

Yes he is.

 

Al the kool big builds are from u/c!!

 

Mines just a simple mild build. Should be fun nonetheless. I know after looking at yours and others that I made the right choice.

 

Mine will be up there soon as well, just as soon as Irish is complete. Seems Tial is having some problems of late

 

Surprised you did not have them install a GT3RS lightweight under drive pulley. Thats a good mod that saves some weight, frees up some parasitic drag, and saves some wear and tear on your accessories if you operate the engine at high rpms a lot..

 

I asked Tim about the ATI harmonic balancer and Pulley, as I wanted to upgrade it ... He suggested to leave it stock .. He told men that cup cats are running the stock balances and the rev the F*** out the motor.. And that the porsche motors are a smooth running morning .

I'm not going to be pushing my car to the limits , no track or drag. This is a highway at and a cruiser. And I'm going to keep the rev limit pretty much the sam as stock.

 

Abe, regarding the harmonic balancer it's actually the exact opposite. I'm not saying you need it but its more a preventative modification for 3.8 motors and above not so much for 3.6's.

From my engine builder...,


"I have been asked why Cup or RSR race engines do not suffer from these same failures. They do, but with some exceptions. First, these engines do not have electronic variable adjustable camshafts so their camshafts have fixed timing. Second, their typical operating RPM range is 5500 and above. The failures seen in the street engines typically happen after periods of low speed driving. Racing these street engines does bring into play other issues, but the harmonic range that causes most of the failures is at lower engine speeds. Continual high speed operation of these race engines above their safety limit has resulted in complete crankshaft failures, just as we have seen in the earlier 962C engines."

Full story here....

http://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-g...cking-out.html

 

I wasn't talking about the ATI damper which my builder does not recommend or believe in anyway and this guys has easily built over 100 GT3 and Cup motors. He feels that the issues of the cam bolts backing out are mainly caused by guys that run the hell out of these motors at the track and can't rev match properly.

I was talking about the OEM GT3RS lightweight pulley which under drives your accessories by 20%. For a street cruiser engine, none of this is necessary but at under $200 it's a cheap upgrade. According to Motec, my average engine RPMs at the track are 5500+ with a 7500 redline. Running the under drive pulley makes sense as it saves wear and tear on the PS and water pump.

As far as the GT3 dipstick goes, I like having it as a backup in case the electronic one started acting up (even though it's rare) and I was 1000 miles from home at an event. It's nice to have it to cross check the electronic one which I still use as a primary means to check the oil level. At $100 in parts and 5 minute install, it's a no brainer. All the 996GT3s had both systems..

 

Abe, good taking with you. I would read the thread and be your own judge. The issue arises not on the track driven cars nor when above 5500rpm as my engine builder stated which has decades of experience which includes Porsche Motorsports, F1 experience with a team that won two Championships background and in business for 40 years described it's more the street driven and lower speed that is considered the "silent killer".

I would hit up Garth and see what he thinks as he is your tuner and sure will direct you the right way!

 

I was at the shop a little while ago and felt Abes turbo. Kinda unfortunate and lucky that tech caught that too. I turned the turbo myself and every few turns it felt like the wheel was grabbing metal, seems like a mchining issues in the wheel or the cover itself.

I have also been contemplating on getting a crank pulley, I was going to go with the EvoMS, then I saw few post from Esmotor and they run the harmonic balancer pulleys. Both seem to be reliable resources. I do not want to do the RS one because I do not want the underdrive, I want the alternator driven at full speed.