The oem style lugs do fit. Problem is the ones I have because whey were used with spacers are to long in the rear, fronts are on because no ebrake assembly up there. I'm going to get a shorter set of oem lugs and use them. That will make me feel much better when driving hard

 

Do they use the same seat as stock? I seem to recall that was part of Mark's issue but he can speak to it best.

 

That I'll have to look at again. Idk if it's ball or just tapered. The lugs I got with the wheels are per say bad quality but not as good as stock one I don't think.

 

oem is ball seat
afaik forgestar does NOT make ball seat wheels...

 

this^

without my relating in excruciating detail just exactly HOW bad the lugs forgestar presumably supplied you with along with the wheels ( shiny chromed asian(??) ones?? ) my myriad numbers of posts countless bitc*ing a few yrs back and outlining my frustration with the "seeming" inferiority of them, can easily and should easily be in found in here or perhaps thru a simple google search.

without my re-living/sharing the agony of the head/heartache i endured i will simply tell you i snapped a lot of lug bolts ( rears only ) had many custom made and decided the taper of the lug opening in the wheel was incompatible with the oem conical lugs. then just get some tuv certified lugs and hope for the best good luck!
i dealt with that sh*t for moths. to this day i am unsure as to what positively caused my issues except to say i was pushing a lot of rwd power ( relatively speaking ) around some very tight off/on camber curves uphills and there was an enormous amount of stress placed upon the lugs and i was torqueing them almost daily.

http://suncoastparts.com/product/LUGNUT.html

good luck f'starts lugs suck. for real.

 

yeah, it's "comforting" to know that every damn subversive thing I've ever said is right there to be found at a google search

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-any-help.html

 

O you do. I did the one side rear and front but need to do the others. Just put the wheels on for pics. Roll and mod the fenders liners in the rear, mod the radiator bracket and liners in the front. These sizes are not what I'd suggest for the average guy. With my car though and the power if will be putting out I think it's a nice setup. Plus I have to ability to do all the work myself so it makes it simple.

 

Are those the lugs you're using now mark? Ya you were having problems at 475, I'm going to be north of 700whp

 

^ spammer, needs to be deleted whoever the admin is.

 

Have you considered maybe switching to studs like these:

http://www.rennline.com/Competition-...ductinfo/LS06/

Looks like they have conical nuts available as an option.

 

no I'm back to tuv sized oem's on N rated tires. but bear in mind..

a 500 rwhp car going around around a "suggested" 15mph corner is akin to a 700 awhp awd car going in a straighlline was is my point. the lateral stresses are far greater in the former. that's what was killing them.

the stress i put on the forgestar lugs hilclimbing, was far greater the were i simply going for straight-line speed. were i simply going for straight-line ( tracking ) speed.

this is all purely conjecture on my part, but it makes a great deal of sense. says me lol.

 

Only problem with stud would be going back to the stock wheels at all. With spacers the lugs probabaly are not long enough. I'd rather just have 2 sets of bolts

 

O I completely get that. Cornering is where you put lots of stress on them. Just need some very strong conical bolts.

 

Yeah, that's the only issue. They do offer several lengths of the studs though so you could have conical nuts and ball seat nuts and swap back to stock. In fact one of the selling points of having the studs is how easy wheel swaps are. Only problem would be if the studs you need are so long that they would stick out when you're on the stock wheels. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out what stud size would cover you with the CF10's and the stockers....I'm still running bolts mind you but I did research converting to studs a bit, could be beneficial in the right setup.

 

I would be EXTREMELY weary of using anything but proper German made TUV approved lug bolts or studs/nuts on any car that is used for high performance driving. The stresses that go though the wheel / hub assemblies are truly staggering (especially in the rear) when you combine high lateral loads along with high torque. It's the repeated lateral loads that do the damage in my opinion as opposed to high torque alone. I see repeated lateral loads of 1.3-1.5Gs combined with relatively moderate engine torque to the wheels peaking at 670 ft.lbs at 4000 rpms. I have never broken a wheel stud but regularly break wheel hubs as seen in the picture below.

How is it possible that I break wheel hubs and not wheel studs when many guys with GT3s at the track see wheel stud failures? In my opinion, the reason many guys see failures are two fold, inferior wheel stud / lug bolt quality and under torquing the wheel. Wheel stud / lug bolt quality is self explanatory, under torquing is not. In my opinion, 96 ft.lbs is not high enough torque to prevent a tiny amount of repeated flex in the stud/bolt which causes eventual fatigue and failure. This is basically akin to flexing a paper clip back and forth until it breaks. The 96 ft.lbs is a carry over from the 80s when Porsche used aluminum lug nuts on many of their cars. Four years ago, at the urging of my race shop, I switched to 118 ft.lbs and have not had any issues in 4+ year of track use. I now replace wheel hubs / bearings in the rear every year as preventative maintenance. This equals about every 3000 track miles.

Incidentally, 118 ft.lbs is what Porsche specifies now for all cars since the 991 even though the wheel bolt dimensions are the same 14x1.5. There is obviously a reason why Porsche upped the torque on the wheel bolts. The higher clamping force prevents/minimizes any flex in the wheel bolt which eliminates/minimizes flex thus reducing stress fatigue. Finally, I use German TUV approved H&R wheel studs (pictured below) and OEM ball seat stainless steel lug nuts. This is what my shop uses with success on all their race cars. Each wheel stud is tightened with locktite at 32 ft.lbs into the wheel hub and each lug nut at 118 ft.lbs.

I would stay away from any products of unknown origin. Many are cheap Chinese stock..

[url=https://flic.kr/p/yuMdAv]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Bz8R86]