Blown motor pics.
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I
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i doubt the tune had anything to do with this. personally i rarely worry about why something like this happened since it was a catastrophic failure and just about everything will be replaced. take pics move forward and dont look back!
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But back to your build, i would certainly scrutinize the parts and check them for integrity before using them. I am not trying to be difficult or negative, but when something as small as a bad tune or others can cause this damage, you don't want to spend 80% of the money building it to find out something else has failed
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Whaaaat?????
You have to be kidding? I guess this would happen if you rebuilt the engine with your eyes closed.
No engine should ever be built/assembled without knowing the cause of the initial failure. That' the definition of stupidity. Expecting a different result when repeating the same.
If the head lifted, there will be signs of this. The Gasket will show this as will the Gasket mating surfaces.
Now is the time maybe to re think the head clamping. Is the Gasket up to the forces involved. Are the Head studs equally up to the job required. You can estimate the cylinder pressures involved here and make sure the tensile strength of the studs are up to it. Maybe they are the wrong material? Maybe the anchoring in the block is not strong enough. Maybe the head is collapsing inwards around the stud under compression when tightening the head nuts. Maybe you may need to adjust the tightening procedures and values.
These cylinders are large in diameter and the head stud spread is out at 90.00mm I think so there is a lot of unsupported head between the studs. Relying on the embossment in the gasket around the Cylinder in these high pressurized engines is probably not sufficient for any sort of longevity.
There is a lot of shearing forces placed upon the head gasket that takes place in an engine that runs above atmospheric pressure. Don't take it for granted that you are covered. Assembling the engine without checking and making sure you have the right "build" for the use the engine will be used, is asking for the same to happen again. You may have better odds at the race track. Horses not cars.
You have to be kidding? I guess this would happen if you rebuilt the engine with your eyes closed.
No engine should ever be built/assembled without knowing the cause of the initial failure. That' the definition of stupidity. Expecting a different result when repeating the same.
If the head lifted, there will be signs of this. The Gasket will show this as will the Gasket mating surfaces.
Now is the time maybe to re think the head clamping. Is the Gasket up to the forces involved. Are the Head studs equally up to the job required. You can estimate the cylinder pressures involved here and make sure the tensile strength of the studs are up to it. Maybe they are the wrong material? Maybe the anchoring in the block is not strong enough. Maybe the head is collapsing inwards around the stud under compression when tightening the head nuts. Maybe you may need to adjust the tightening procedures and values.
These cylinders are large in diameter and the head stud spread is out at 90.00mm I think so there is a lot of unsupported head between the studs. Relying on the embossment in the gasket around the Cylinder in these high pressurized engines is probably not sufficient for any sort of longevity.
There is a lot of shearing forces placed upon the head gasket that takes place in an engine that runs above atmospheric pressure. Don't take it for granted that you are covered. Assembling the engine without checking and making sure you have the right "build" for the use the engine will be used, is asking for the same to happen again. You may have better odds at the race track. Horses not cars.
if he was rebuilding the same motor maybe then it would be relevent. but since that case has a huge hole in it i dont think thats wise.
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lets see broken rod, broken crank, broken oil pump damaged liners damaged pistons. destroyed cases. exactly what difference does it make why it let go? the fact is theres virtually nothing that can be salvaged from this motor sans the heads if they werent damaged and the cams and lifters. everything else is junk. so starting from scratch why would anything that happened to this motor apply to the new build? if he wanted to build a bulletproof motor everything from the case forward would be shiny new and larger than before. but he isnt. he is building a budget get my car back on the road build . the reason it let go is irrelevent. you want to know what happened? the rod broke and destroyed the motor. thats what happened.
if he was rebuilding the same motor maybe then it would be relevent. but since that case has a huge hole in it i dont think thats wise.
if he was rebuilding the same motor maybe then it would be relevent. but since that case has a huge hole in it i dont think thats wise.
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I guess I'm somewhat in the camp of just fixit with this much damage. I'd be damned curious and I certainly wouldn't want a repeat but a failure analysis is going to be pretty tough.
While it's apart I'd take advantage of the opportunity to do rods and pistons, I'd seriously consider going 3.8, I'd do 12mm studs (think SRM has a solution here), and I'd run the upgraded lifters. I'd grit my teeth and skip doing head work unless they needed to come apart anyway. New bearings for sure, pin the coolant pipes, bummer about the oil pump, a used crank sounds dandy. Make SURE you clean out or replace turbo oil lines, tanks, and anything that it have collected metal or you might hurt something when it fires next!
While it's apart I'd take advantage of the opportunity to do rods and pistons, I'd seriously consider going 3.8, I'd do 12mm studs (think SRM has a solution here), and I'd run the upgraded lifters. I'd grit my teeth and skip doing head work unless they needed to come apart anyway. New bearings for sure, pin the coolant pipes, bummer about the oil pump, a used crank sounds dandy. Make SURE you clean out or replace turbo oil lines, tanks, and anything that it have collected metal or you might hurt something when it fires next!
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Some of you may remember me, I blew up about 2 years ago running 18g billets, 60lb injectors, and protomotive tune. Car ran great but when I went hard to 170 it seized. Now taking her apart to rebuild. I will post ongoing pics of the damage. Looks like it ran lean and seized the cyl farthest down the fuel injector supply system.
can someone explain why it ran lean?
Yes I wanted to make sure it wasnt a mistake I made with my tune or fuel setup. Looks like it was a lifted head hydro lock situation based upon the evidence. Unfortunate but not entirely my fault.
I have a used replacement case already. My plan is to get a low mileage crank, forged rods, a replacement oil pump and all new bearings for the bottom end. For the top I am going to get studs for sure. I haven't decided on a top end setup yet, still considering options. My heads are still good, so I will clean them up and re use them. I will probably get help building the top end, but I'm sure I can put together the bottom.
I have a used replacement case already. My plan is to get a low mileage crank, forged rods, a replacement oil pump and all new bearings for the bottom end. For the top I am going to get studs for sure. I haven't decided on a top end setup yet, still considering options. My heads are still good, so I will clean them up and re use them. I will probably get help building the top end, but I'm sure I can put together the bottom.
That was early speculation by me but it turns out that I lifted a head and hydro locked the cylinder.
did you have after market intercoolers on the car? were you running 93 octane? how much boost?
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
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50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
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like i said 3 pages ago. hydrolock. confirmed by the o/p. doesnt take an engineer to see that.