DOG:

I don't remember where you aree measuring boost from. Here are a few simply things to check. Since you have a scanner, I am sure you have recorded many of the sensor readings when the engine was running well. Are the LTFT and STFT similar to before: What is your MAF reading? What is your vacuum reading at idle. Take a look at your throttle position sensor reading and make sure it reaches 100% when the pedal is depressed all the way.

As far as heat, the IC should not get HOT at any time. It should always remain cool enough to place you hand on it even after the hardest of runs. Possably a kinked line when they relocated the hoses to their proper position. You can open the IC filler cap and watch the flow of coolant while the engine is off and the key is on. It should be an even flow. If they disconnected the line, they may have reconnected them backwards. The flow should come in from the top side of the filler tank and retrurn to the underside of the car via the bottom hose.

The compressor may rattle at times (internally) as they get more miles on them. Check that the pulley bolt is on tight by reaching behind the compressor and feeling. Check oil supply by removing the oil feed at the SC connection point and have someone start the car while you hold the end of the hose in a jar.

 

the compressor may be rattling against the decklid. mine did so i relieved it some more with a dremel. mind you, i have an FRP decklid, not metal, so i am not sure if you would want to grind away.

the IC may get hot on the exterior but check the water temp. stick your finger into the top off reservoir immediately after shutting the engine off... should be cool. if you wait a good amount of time to check the temp, the engine will actually heat up the IC coolant and be very hot (ask me how i know )

are you getting hot engine temps? what are your scanner readings?

your power loss leads me to believe there is a leak. check your intake hoses. if there is an intake leak then the MAF will sense a disproportionate amount of air that the SC is actually feeding the engine. the engine will be getting less fuel for that boost contributing to a lean condition and a hot engine (anyone, correct me if i am wrong). i don't think you are leaking boost because that would tend to produce a rich condition and a "cooler" engine. your "normal" AFRs is the confusing bit.

check your boost hoses for blockage. i, too, have just installed the new silicone hoses (DIY) and the cames in a box full of peanuts. these packaging peanuts wedged themselves really good. hopefully you don't have an intercooler full of peanuts

 

carlos: did you have any problems with IC fitment after installing the boost hoses? my IC position is totally different now than where it was with the stock plastic hoses.

thanks for the info guys. i'm going to send the car back to my EVO installer and let him deal with it. i'll pass all this info along to him. well, he just posted in the thread, so i'm sure he's reading this too

engine temps seem to be normal, my exhaust gas temps are way hotter than before. around 200 degrees higher.

boost is being measured off a vacuum line on the throttle body.

the SC rattling concerns me a bit, as it's rattling with the decklid up. although, as 1999 said, it may just be loosening up a but with mileage. sounds awful when the decklid is up though.

 

Allot of good feedback on problem, Taking it back in ASAP.. with a higher EGT it leads me to believe that your not cooling if AFR is normal, I have not heard of a IC leaking, but it's possible but if you add water to your intake that's one way of steam cleaning your valves. Are you loosing any water in your resvoir?

 

If you are using the Mobil water (0w40) in you engine, the blower noise will increase.

 

Yes that too..

 

Dude, you could cook a hot dog from a foot away from it. It was hot. I have driven the car acouple of times and drove it again last night. It did not seem to be as fast as before for whatever reason.

 

DDog,

IC position is pretty much the same. i'm not sure how you can have a totally different position .

oh ya, your boost reading of 5 psi which is normal, obviously means you don't have a boost leak or peanuts in the intake for that matter .

i think you are sucking in more air than the MAF is reading, i.e., intake leak leading to a lean condition leading to high EGTs. maybe like 1999 suggested, a faulty MAF. both are easy fixes.

i echo 1999's thoughts on oil, use 15w50, esp in florida.

take a video of the SC making noise. i would like to hear/see it.

P.S. i got the billet aluminum diverter valve. really nice bit. it makes a very light whistling sound when you get off on WOT. not obnoxious like those ricers blow off valves.

 

I wasn't questioning whether the IC was hot or not. I simply stated that it SHOULD NOT BE HOT. If it is, probably not enough coolant flowing through it. This would greatly reduce performance. At NO time, even on the hottest of day and the hardest of runs, should you not be able to keep your hand agaist the IC. It should be warm, but not hot. Lack of coolant flow is the ONLY thing that will let it get hot.

Pretty simple to check the flow.

 

Carlos, It sounded like there was a bad bearing in there or something. It was pretty loud.

 

I know, I was just telling you how hot it actually was. After the car was off, it sounded like water was being poured trought the IC 16 oz at a time.

 

YIPES! does the sound get worse when you get on the gas?

 

this probably means the IC is not getting any coolant. the boost charge is heating up the IC. with a hot IC and hot intake charge, the ECU will retard the timing to safeguard the engine from detonation. this is, more likely, the culprit. it could explain the hot EGT and the normal AFR and boost.

probably not an intake leak or peanuts

 

Rattling should disappear when engine speed increases.

 

My SC was rattling too, right after the install. Sharkwerks has done many of these and apparently some rattle a little to begin with but even out after break in.

Mine didn't, can't say it got worse, but it didn't get any better after 700 miles. Sharky and James have it in their shop right now giving it some tender loving care.

I wonder if your rattling was the same as mine. It sounds truly awful, like grinding bearings, It got worse as it got hotter. Increasing the revs made it sound like it was going away, but actually the engine noise was simply masking the rattling.

It actually sounded far worse inside the cabin than outside, but still worrying enough for me to keep pestering the guys about it.

Pulling up at the lights was an embarrassing procedure. First they'd hear the pipes, then the awful rattling.

:-)


Luckily, Sharky and James took some video of it and I think they showed it to VF who replaced the SC right away.

VF suspects either interference or faulty bearings.