Xonas are on!
#271
lol!
I like your elegant solution to the hose issues. I'm not sure if that attachment is retrofittable to the actuator I already have but I will check with Tial.
I like your elegant solution to the hose issues. I'm not sure if that attachment is retrofittable to the actuator I already have but I will check with Tial.
#272
Wow- that's impressive! My motor is a forged 3.8L conversion with Mahle 3.8 p/c, carillo rods, EVOMS headstuds, and GMG Intercoolers. I'm running 68mm VTG's on 91 octane. I add 1.5- 2 gallons of E98 per tank to boost octane and help with the EGT's. I'm definitely no where near your power levels. I'm probable around 650-700 crank HP. My 60-100 times are 3.2 seconds in 3d gear. It's tempting to do what you or Boggs is doing and switching to non VTG. I certainly don't want to give up drivability but it sounds like your spool times aren't too bad. My car is a semi-daily driver. I'm assuming I would need to budget $10-15K (parts and labor) or so for the conversion if I had a shop do it.
#273
Thanks for the feedback. I hope that anyone considering the move away from vtgs will find it less intimidating after learning from my experience.
#274
It is retrofittable as the threaded portion is the same on both the barb and -4AN fitting. My actuators originally had the standard barb fittings but I swapped them to -4AN prior to install. Tial can send you the fittings if you contact them but swapping the lines with the engine in the car may be a bit of a knuckle scraper. Lowering the engine a few inches will definitely help. When the engine is out of the car it's a breeze of course.
#275
Hmmmmm….that doesn't seem right. When I had my Champion 68s on pumpgas (not far off from ACN91) I could get 60-100 of 3.0s on flat road. Started around 3k rpm in 3rd and floored it. With a 3.8L built engine you should be able to turn up the boost at ANY rpm so I'd expect your times to be at least as good as mine were!
BUT- all that said, my car is faster than the new c7 Z06 which is the same weight and has 650 hp and 650 tq. So when looked at from that perspective, I think I'm probably running about where I should and my car is making 650-700 hp. EVOMS is currently making me a custom E30 tune- I haven't gotten around to installing it and testing yet. It may wake the car up a bit.
I love the idea of just sticking to 91 pump and making the numbers that you are. Very tempting to go your non VTG route. Again, thank you for this discussion and contributing to all of our knowledge.
#276
For comparison, I used to have Protomotive 63vtgs and Proto tune. In 4th gear only I could do 7.2s 60-130 so I would expect on a built motor with 3.8L that you should be able to get a better time, and with 68s too. I was able to get 6.9s with 68s in 4th only. Something doesn't add up...unless you are in a hot climate for the runs?
#277
For comparison, I used to have Protomotive 63vtgs and Proto tune. In 4th gear only I could do 7.2s 60-130 so I would expect on a built motor with 3.8L that you should be able to get a better time, and with 68s too. I was able to get 6.9s with 68s in 4th only. Something doesn't add up...unless you are in a hot climate for the runs?
I'm not sure what else I can do at this point. My data logs look good according to EVOMS. It seems that any more boost or ignition advance isn't much of an option at this point.
The motor was fully rebuilt 2500 miles ago by a reputable shop in the Los Angeles area and tuning was done by EVOMS. One question I have for you- were you on stock injectors when you were running 68mm VTG's?
Many thanks for your input- this is really helpful.
#278
All of my runs were done at 60-62 degrees F, 330 feet above sea level at 0 decline. I'm here in central California. I'd be much happier if I was doing high 6's or very low 7's in 4th only. When I look at my vbox graphs, if the car were a PDK (or tiptronic) with no boost loss between shifts and a nearly instant 3-4 shift, I would be at 7.1 seconds. But yeah, 4th gear only I'm at 7.5. If I went out and found a 3% decline on a cold winter morning below freezing, I suspect I could probably turn out a 7 second time- or heck, maybe even a high 6......maybe. Were your runs on a flat surface, and what were your ambient temps and altitude?
I'm not sure what else I can do at this point. My data logs look good according to EVOMS. It seems that any more boost or ignition advance isn't much of an option at this point.
The motor was fully rebuilt 2500 miles ago by a reputable shop in the Los Angeles area and tuning was done by EVOMS. One question I have for you- were you on stock injectors when you were running 68mm VTG's?
Many thanks for your input- this is really helpful.
I'm not sure what else I can do at this point. My data logs look good according to EVOMS. It seems that any more boost or ignition advance isn't much of an option at this point.
The motor was fully rebuilt 2500 miles ago by a reputable shop in the Los Angeles area and tuning was done by EVOMS. One question I have for you- were you on stock injectors when you were running 68mm VTG's?
Many thanks for your input- this is really helpful.
I cannot believe you are on stock injectors with your build!! The 68s definitely need more flow even on pumpgas. If you are hitting 22 psi you would probably have injector duty cycle over 90% which would show in a datalog. If u have access to e85 I would recommend u change injectors and tune and run e85. If u want to stay on 91 i would recommend bigger injectors and my Xonas as u could turn up the boost in the 4k rpm range without worrying about the rods and your car will fly.
#279
Was it House automotive that built your engine? My understanding is that a 3.8L engine will have more low end tq and better flow so there's no reason I can see for your performance numbers. I am in Canada and the roads for pbox runs are reasonably flat. Certainly less than the 3% limit. In 60s and a 4th gear run starting at 50mph I could get repeatable 60 to 130 of 7seconds with my 68s. Your engine build must have cost a pretty penny, i would have put in a boost controller at the same time and gone aftermarket as it would have just been an incremental cost increase. The engine would have to come down again now to retrofit a boost controller.
I cannot believe you are on stock injectors with your build!! The 68s definitely need more flow even on pumpgas. If you are hitting 22 psi you would probably have injector duty cycle over 90% which would show in a datalog. If u have access to e85 I would recommend u change injectors and tune and run e85. If u want to stay on 91 i would recommend bigger injectors and my Xonas as u could turn up the boost in the 4k rpm range without worrying about the rods and your car will fly.
I cannot believe you are on stock injectors with your build!! The 68s definitely need more flow even on pumpgas. If you are hitting 22 psi you would probably have injector duty cycle over 90% which would show in a datalog. If u have access to e85 I would recommend u change injectors and tune and run e85. If u want to stay on 91 i would recommend bigger injectors and my Xonas as u could turn up the boost in the 4k rpm range without worrying about the rods and your car will fly.
At the time, I was not interested in running e85 due to my perception that I’d need to be checking ethanol percentage with each tank, worried about water absorption, etc, etc. I talked to EVOMS and was told that the stock injectors were adequate for 91 octane, and would support 700+ crank HP. With 91, I’d be at the high end of the duty cycle, but the injectors themselves wouldn’t limit the power- the 91 octane and associated knock would limit the motor before the injectors would. Research on my end confirmed that the stock injectors were good for 700-750 crank HP. I was pretty happy with that and stuck with the stock injectors. But in retrospect, I wish I had gone with ID 1300’s or Siemens injectors. I may end up doing that at some point.
Ill see see if the injectors will keep up with the new EVOMS E30 tune, which hopefully I’ll be testing in the next week or so. EVOMS said the new tune will up the boost in the midrange.... I’ll see how that affects the times.
Thank you you again for your very helpful info. And I totally apologize for hijacking your thread! Please keep us all posted on your Xona progress!
#280
The shop that rebuilt the motor was GMG in Santa Ana. Indeed it was pricey. It was rebuilt due to a broken timing change which trashed the motor. At the time, I was pretty upset about dumping yet more money into the car, as I had recently bought it and paid at or above market value, assuming it was going to be reliable long term. I went ahead and had them do a 3.8 conversion, Carrillo’s, studs, gt3 oil pump, etc.
At the time, I was not interested in running e85 due to my perception that I’d need to be checking ethanol percentage with each tank, worried about water absorption, etc, etc. I talked to EVOMS and was told that the stock injectors were adequate for 91 octane, and would support 700+ crank HP. With 91, I’d be at the high end of the duty cycle, but the injectors themselves wouldn’t limit the power- the 91 octane and associated knock would limit the motor before the injectors would. Research on my end confirmed that the stock injectors were good for 700-750 crank HP. I was pretty happy with that and stuck with the stock injectors. But in retrospect, I wish I had gone with ID 1300’s or Siemens injectors. I may end up doing that at some point.
Ill see see if the injectors will keep up with the new EVOMS E30 tune, which hopefully I’ll be testing in the next week or so. EVOMS said the new tune will up the boost in the midrange.... I’ll see how that affects the times.
Thank you you again for your very helpful info. And I totally apologize for hijacking your thread! Please keep us all posted on your Xona progress!
At the time, I was not interested in running e85 due to my perception that I’d need to be checking ethanol percentage with each tank, worried about water absorption, etc, etc. I talked to EVOMS and was told that the stock injectors were adequate for 91 octane, and would support 700+ crank HP. With 91, I’d be at the high end of the duty cycle, but the injectors themselves wouldn’t limit the power- the 91 octane and associated knock would limit the motor before the injectors would. Research on my end confirmed that the stock injectors were good for 700-750 crank HP. I was pretty happy with that and stuck with the stock injectors. But in retrospect, I wish I had gone with ID 1300’s or Siemens injectors. I may end up doing that at some point.
Ill see see if the injectors will keep up with the new EVOMS E30 tune, which hopefully I’ll be testing in the next week or so. EVOMS said the new tune will up the boost in the midrange.... I’ll see how that affects the times.
Thank you you again for your very helpful info. And I totally apologize for hijacking your thread! Please keep us all posted on your Xona progress!
Stupid spell correct- broken timing chain
#281
No worries about threadjacking at all, post away.
That is an awesome build and one I wish I had. Hopefully I'm not forced into doing one, lol. Sucks what happened to you but at the end of the day you should have a bulletproof engine and now you should be rocking some seriously fast times. But you aren't yet...
Do you have stock or aftermarket turbo inlet pipes? what intercoolers and exhaust? I assume an aftermarket clutch?
That is an awesome build and one I wish I had. Hopefully I'm not forced into doing one, lol. Sucks what happened to you but at the end of the day you should have a bulletproof engine and now you should be rocking some seriously fast times. But you aren't yet...
Do you have stock or aftermarket turbo inlet pipes? what intercoolers and exhaust? I assume an aftermarket clutch?
#282
Full GMG headers and exhaust, GMG World Challenge IC’s, do88 inlet pipes. Clutch is the heavier duty one that’s one step above the Sachs 2.5 (I forgot the nomenclature of it, it’s the one used in 4.0l GT3’s). My TB, y-pipe and intake plenum are stock.
I’ll keep working with EVOMS. I know the new tune optimized for a bit more ethanol that I’m going to be testing will run more mid range boost. Hoping it’ll help.
Thanks again for everything!
I’ll keep working with EVOMS. I know the new tune optimized for a bit more ethanol that I’m going to be testing will run more mid range boost. Hoping it’ll help.
Thanks again for everything!
#283
All I know is that the HKS boost controller instructions are probably wrong...it says to do a full throttle pull and use the highest value as the "baseline boost" setting. My understanding and experience showed that the controller doesn't take effect until it reaches that "baseline boost" setting and in my case that was near the high end of the rpm range so it wasn't quite right. I actually measured the wg cracking pressure (details later) and set the baseline boost setting at that level and it has worked beautifully. More details to follow..
What was the cracking pressure of the spring they shipped with? I thought it was 1bar or 14.5psi which would be in that target 65% range.
^^^^NEVERMIND I went back and read the answers....
Last edited by DOOBEE; 05-13-2019 at 04:37 AM.
#284
We mounted the boost controller solenoid at the back of the engine near the back of the intake plenum so it isn't really accessible without dropping the engine which sucks considering I replaced everything when the engine was down.
I think I would like to move the boost controller solenoid somewhere else too so that it may be accessible in the future. God forbid those stupid little expensive inline filters clog or something, lol.
I think I would like to move the boost controller solenoid somewhere else too so that it may be accessible in the future. God forbid those stupid little expensive inline filters clog or something, lol.
My controller is mounted here. Nothing is really accessible. No filters inline, they are a weak link.
#285