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Hey Sean,
what is that "Vibrant" thing above the plenum? So the filters aren't necessary? Is the actuator screwed into the intake runner or is it just sitting on the surface? I assume equal length tubing to the wastegates even though the actuator is mounted on one side of the engine?
It's an air manifold and minimizes any splices or tees. The IPD plenum feeds it and it feeds everything else. Not sure the length to the WGs is exact side to side or that it matters. The boost controller feeds a tee somewhere in the middle so its close.
The actuator is bolted to a bracket which is bolted through the factory tie bar. No penetration into the intake manifold.
Full GMG headers and exhaust, GMG World Challenge IC’s, do88 inlet pipes. Clutch is the heavier duty one that’s one step above the Sachs 2.5 (I forgot the nomenclature of it, it’s the one used in 4.0l GT3’s). My TB, y-pipe and intake plenum are stock.
I’ll keep working with EVOMS. I know the new tune optimized for a bit more ethanol that I’m going to be testing will run more mid range boost. Hoping it’ll help.
Thanks again for everything!
Your gear looks good, the only limiting factor is the injectors but I'd still expect better results. More boost in midrange will definitely help...keep us posted!
It's an air manifold and minimizes any splices or tees. The IPD plenum feeds it and it feeds everything else. Not sure the length to the WGs is exact side to side or that it matters. The boost controller feeds a tee somewhere in the middle so its close.
The actuator is bolted to a bracket which is bolted through the factory tie bar. No penetration into the intake manifold.
oooh that's nice. Is it the stock factory tie bar just painted or something aftermarket? Maybe I'll mount my solenoid there too. Actually that was my original plan but it looks so clean at the back of the engine behind the plenum. I will figure it out when the time comes.
A small tab was welded to the stock bar to mount it a bit lower and it was painted black. I think you can get away with just bolting it directly to the bar.
That is a sexy setup! I was thinking of using a vacuum block like yours to eliminate all the OEM hardlines....good to see it can be done. Do you mind creating a separate thread detailing this setup? Maybe even detailing part numbers if you have them?
Originally Posted by DOOBEE
I'm surprised the rigid boost tubing was resued. I replaced all my hoses. The AN solution is nice.
My controller is mounted here. Nothing is really accessible. No filters inline, they are a weak link.
Last edited by turboslut; May 13, 2019 at 09:38 PM.
A small tab was welded to the stock bar to mount it a bit lower and it was painted black. I think you can get away with just bolting it directly to the bar.
Do you know what the "squeeze" clamps that are used on the hoses are called? I'm trying to buy a set, lol.
You were close, stepless single ear pinch clamps. We use similar ones all the time. They are a great solution for hoses you don't want to come off and have no plans to service any time soon.
McMaster-Carr and search "Tight-Seal Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamps". You will need special pliers to pinch them properly. There is a straight clamp plier and a straight & side clamp plier.
I've been doing a bit of datalogging and currently have the car hitting 20psi in the low 4k range and smoothly tapering up to 21ish psi. i.e. less than I had last year...and am getting consistent 60-100 of 2.7-2.8s in non-dedicated runs. Did one 2.6s run. I discovered some things about the boost controller - when you make a change it takes a few power-cycles (i.e. driving the car, turning it off, driving the car, turning it off) before it is finished "learning". I always thought it was weird that it would initially undershoot target and then the next day it would get closer, etc...
I'm currently using "offset" of 103 after finding a targeted boost taper that results in a fairly flat boost curve. There is no overshoot at all. I kind of miss the bump you get from a slight overshoot in some ways but at least this way the traction is better!
Tial advised getting a kit together (they gave me a parts list) so I could test the wastegate for exact cracking pressure and range, which is something my shop and I should have done while the engine was down. But I'm a noob when it comes to aftermarket turbos and so was the shop. Anyway, I put together the pressure regulator and hosing and a compressor and when I tried to take the hose off the barb on the wastegate I just couldn't get it off.
Good talking to you. Thanks for sharing what you've learned.
The Tial barbs have sharp edges on them that really grab the hose.
Some pics of the process to check and sync the wastegates. This is how mine shipped.
That digital calibration apparatus looks a lot more accurate than my 49 year old eyes staring at the stem from 1 foot away (car was on a jack, not on a lift) and trying to determine when the wg cracked, lol. I subsequently came up with a better method, lol.
