I used Turbosmart Kompact valves and utilized the AMS branches. I blow to atmosphere.

 

Doobee,

Good looking setup! I’ve got a SRM Y-Pipe, so the engine bay looks too tight for BOV’s there. I’m considering BOV's welded to the intercoolers.

I like your Vibrant vacuum manifold setup. Do you recall what the 6 connections to the manifold are?
From plenum, to FPR, to BOV1, to BOV2, to EVC, #6???

So blow to atmosphere….MAFs don’t get utilized….do they get removed? Or just turned off in the Accessport?

I like high level of details…lol. I’ve read that understanding the plumbing really helps understand these non-VTG setups….

Thanks

 

Sam,

Those XR 5764 turbos, do they have the new Ultra High Flow turbines? Will they work with my stock engine? Great timing on the Black Friday sale…..I’ll send you an email!

Thanks

 

This is from the HKS manual



My plumbing is like this. The manifold just moves the air distribution away from the back of the plenum and adds ports. My boost reference for wg control and pressure reading to the HKS both come from the manifold (green and purple). The purple signal can (and ideally should) come off a tee tied to both compressors or off the y-pipe before the TB.

 

I switched to a .2 airbox and removed the MAFS. Less restriction. They can be turned off with a tune.




I fabricated some silicon and aluminum couplers to connect to the inlet tubes. I needed an offset coupler on one side, 30 degree on the other, some aluminum bends, and a tubing expander to accommodate size differences (inlet pipes are larger).



The MAF plugs tie up nicely with the O2 sensor plugs

 

Thanks Doobee - Awesome details, I love it!! The purple pressure reference from the manifold was the one that confused me when I was cross-referencing....makes sense now.

Good idea with the .2 air box. I’ve got the do88 inlet pipes already, so I’ll keep my air box, but I’ll look to remove the MAF’s and plug the holes.

 

I thought Rix had the high flow turbine on his car nut they are much bigger turbos. I'm not sure they are needed on the xr980 unless an engine build is planned because even the regular xr980 can push over 20psi at 4k rpm

 

If u come up with a good way to plug the maf holes please let me know!
My bovs are welded to the intercooler end tank. So far so good but it would mean taking off the bumper if they needed anything

 

It appears Rix upgraded the XR 65 (lb/min) 64 (mm outlet) to an even bigger XR7164....so 700ish hp per turbo potential....yowza!

 

Sam,

Is it a question of UHF is way overkill for a stock engine or that it doesn’t perform as well? Or that there currently isn’t a XR 57 (lb/min) 64S (mm outlet) version that fits into a Porsche housing (but one could come soon)?

I ask so that I can understand the impact in case I end up building the engine in a couple years....and regret not having the UHF aeros....

I’m new to this, but I thought UHF could further help reduce lag...

From Forced Performance site....
“The revolutionary UHF aero XR57S/XR64S turbine delivers the greatest overall flow possible while simultaneously reducing inertia more than 30% giving the fastest repsonse we have ever observed at this power level.”

 

Steve, if you are even remotely considering building your engine then I think you should wait and see if the UHF version comes to Porsche....

 

Thanks for the tip Bogg. Should have checked that out sooner.

 

Say whaaaaaaat. Are u serious that's what u found when you looked?

 

I guess they weren't tight enough. I heard the rattle when I was putting the car away. I should have looked sooner but haven't taken the car anywhere lately or far enough to open it up so I didn't notice. I was too lazy to put it on the lift when you mentioned it but there's no excuse as the driver side is easy to see under the car. Need 2 new stainless 1/4-28 jam nuts. I may try to lengthen the rod a few mm and put a thin flex type lock nut on the outside. I'll get extra for when you need some!

 

Lol thanks pal. If you take the stem apart keep in mind that its orientation in 3d is important so that it opens linearly with no side torque on the wastegate itself. Tial told me this and also that you need a minimum number of threads in the connecting nut...that minimum distance into the nut is the diameter of the shaft. I forget the exact number but when u do it be sure to mark the original position on the stem with a sharpie etc.
I only had issues with the inboard nut on the passenger side. In order to tighten it I needed a crow foot wrench and it has to be done with the wastegate in resting position. The outboard nut should be tightened with wastegate open by applying air to the actuator. These 2 positions are where the nuts are most loose. I wish they had used the other method which uses a loop and fastener mechanism. Oh well...