$2 DRL solution for fog lights
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ok, here you go. this is probably a best solution for this thing.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.
after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.
after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
Last edited by utkinpol; Apr 19, 2012 at 07:22 AM.
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Do a test for us: Remove the hack and charge your battery up but don't change anything else. See if removing the hack really solves the issue or if you have something else going on.
Seems like a lot of guys have done the hack w/o issues and others have problems. Maybe we need a list of car models/years with or w/o a problem to see if it is model/year related. Maybe it does cause a minor current drain and it just highlights those that have weaker batteries.
Seems like a lot of guys have done the hack w/o issues and others have problems. Maybe we need a list of car models/years with or w/o a problem to see if it is model/year related. Maybe it does cause a minor current drain and it just highlights those that have weaker batteries.
diod way is simpler and should be safer, you can only insert it one way to make it work.
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Joined: Feb 2012
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ok, here you go. this is probably a best solution for this thing.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.
after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.
after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
Thanks Utkinpol... can you take a clearer picture?
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http://www.radioshack.com/product/po...ductId=2036268
or:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2036268#
Last edited by na011; Apr 19, 2012 at 01:33 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 340
From: Treasure Island, FL - Home of the Wide Beach
Rep Power: 34
ok, here you go. this is probably a best solution for this thing.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.
after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.
after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
Is this the correct set up?
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19
From: Atlanta
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Do a test for us: Remove the hack and charge your battery up but don't change anything else. See if removing the hack really solves the issue or if you have something else going on.
Seems like a lot of guys have done the hack w/o issues and others have problems. Maybe we need a list of car models/years with or w/o a problem to see if it is model/year related. Maybe it does cause a minor current drain and it just highlights those that have weaker batteries.
Seems like a lot of guys have done the hack w/o issues and others have problems. Maybe we need a list of car models/years with or w/o a problem to see if it is model/year related. Maybe it does cause a minor current drain and it just highlights those that have weaker batteries.
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...og-lights.html
Post #22
JM
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Guys, I am sorry about crappy pictures, I just always have my blackberry in the pocket and did not have time to search for a proper camera.
1N4001 I think is a diod I used. Cathode end gets inserted into 'home' wire pin, other leg goes into 'fog' A5 wire pin. 'A5' is a position in the connector, furthest left on the picture. Not sure what to add, it is all easier to do than to explain.
1N4001 I think is a diod I used. Cathode end gets inserted into 'home' wire pin, other leg goes into 'fog' A5 wire pin. 'A5' is a position in the connector, furthest left on the picture. Not sure what to add, it is all easier to do than to explain.
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Guys... okay I finally found the symptom that some of you may have been experiencing regarding the battery drain. It's intermittent for sure. Today, I drove my car to the store (light in home mode), stopped and parked it. And as I was leaving the car, the dash said the parking light was on. I played around with the light switch, turning on/off the car, until the warning light was gone... Until someone figures it out, I just need to be careful, making sure every time I get out of the car that the warning light doesn't come on...
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I have not had an issue with the wire taps, but I will switch over to the diode. Could you not just push the diode ends into the connecter instead of removing the wires first? Or is it too tight of a fit with the wires in place?
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See post #166 second picture for the "wire block" & the openings.
Last edited by na011; Apr 23, 2012 at 01:47 PM.