Right, the ISC100 would be a good match. True, a pure mid might be better, but good luck in finding one. Either you get a very expensive 3 piece component set with a 4" or just drop in the coax.

I would have gone for the 8" , well, but the deal on the 6.5" 2 way was half as much money. Still very good bass results. Ttsurgeon on the board checked it out this weekend and noted the improvement immediately.

 

I'm wondering if I fit a set of the isc100 up front but just disconnect the tweeter as it will mess with the front imaging

not quite sure what that will do for the impedance though

 

I'm running the coaxes and the tweeters. Doesn't seem to present any imaging issues, but we aren't really creating an audiophile quality setup here! I think you would lose a lot of front soundstage without the dash tweeters.

 

your answer may be the same :-)

but to clarify I meant disconnect the tweeter on the midrange coax's if they are like every other co-ax I've seen they will just be multiple solder tabs connecting them so would be easy enough to do

 

Good thinking! I thought of the same thing! I figured if the setup was too bright I would do just that. Seems okay with them connected, so I just left them. The wires to the tweeters would be very easy to cut.

 

Do we actually need to stay with focals? With it be detrimental to use other brands. It it liketires that you cnat mix and match?

 

If you can meet the basic requirements use whatever brand you prefer, I wouldn't mix brands within a set though as you really want a consistent tonal balance

 

Precisely. If possible, also stay with the same series from the same mfg.

 

What if we replace all the drivers to 4ohm ipendance. The sound will be weaker but there would be balance as all speakers went down. Does this make sense? Im taking of replaceing even the smallish 6 inch drivers of the subwoofer.

 

That's what I did if you follow my long thread. I replaced everything but the sub. There is still plenty of power from the Bose amp to drive the speakers I installed.
Might be nice to change the sub speakers, let us know if you see a good option for them.

 

JL audio 6" would be my choice if your replacing the subs

 

True, but just checking them out, they are over $150 each. There is a flat 8" powered sub for about $150 that would fit on the back shelf. Might be a better option. I'll be curious to see what size the Bose subwoofers really are.

 

They are miniscule. I should have aken pictures when i opened her up. 2 small drivers, i would say anout 6 inches under that plastic box. The door speakers are so much bigger. Which makes me ask which is the sub woofer, the one at the back or the ones in the doors.

 

But stuffing those drivers at the back did give a punchier sound but still awful. I prefer deep soft bass that rolls. Rye might be right though. Replacing those drivers in that box might not be the most effciient thing to do. That box was designed forthose drivers would it work with other similar sized drivers?

 

It seems that many have installed new drivers into Bose subwoofers with decent results. However, it occurs to me that using a flat 8" subwoofer like the Sound Ordinance P-8 on the rear shelf might yield the best results. Besides being a simple drop in solution into otherwise pretty useless space, a powered subwoofer would give SOME bass control. At least you can change volume and cross over, which is a huge plus towards EQing the system. The Focal I Bus is even better in this regard, with better controls including polarity, but costs twice as much. The Sound Ordinance seems highly regarded and a bargain at $150. Anyone know the wiring of the Bose sub?