Guys can you share some light, I am considering mothballing my vantage for a longer than normal period, possibly a year. ( possible work contract in the Middle East)
on the mustang forums the guys say it's best not to have anyone start the car from time to time saying this will do more damage
Rather put in some type of fuel additive and run it through the car fuel system, wash it cover it and leave it.

what are your thoughts on this or what is the best way to keep the car in good condition?

 

I've heard over pressurising the tyres to prevent flat spots, if it was me I think I would be sticking it on a lazy jack and lifting it just to take the weight off the tyres and possibly the suspension as well, ACF-50 all electrical connections, dehumidifier. Rodent free dry garage and cover battery care system, I'm sure somebody will have a better experience and advice.

 

I am no expert on storage matters, but I do store my Cayman R and 993 for about 4 months a year over the Chicago winter. My 993 car manual advises not to hoist the car up as it exposes the metal struts to possible rust. Rather, it suggests to hyper-inflate the tires to avoid flat spots. I personally make sure the gas tank is full (to avoid condensation), mix in some marine Stabil, put the battery on a dependable maintainer (I use a BatteryMinder model), wash and wax (but not stored when wet). Once stored, the cars never get started in the interim. My read on that suggests that idle-ing the engine does not fully warm up the components and then you risk the adverse affects of condensation. It typically takes an actual drive of some duration to accomplish a full warm-up. I've been doing this since 1997 when I first acquired the 993. Never, ever a problem over a 4 month period. Feel free to extrapolate my experience to 12 months, if so desired.

Chivz8's comments about rodents is spot on.

I do have one recommendation that you could consider if you have the room and a power source...purchase a Car Capsule. I have used one for a number of years when I stored one of my cars in my unheated garage. It eliminates condensation as it continually exchanges the air 24/7 and addresses Chivz8's concern about rodent damage. Also protects against dings and dents. Highly recommended.

 

The only thing I can add is to purchase a set of Race Ramp Flatstopper tire cushions to prevent or at least minimize flatspotting of your tires.

 

I have a couple of zipper up car bags. Cover on first, then place in car bag. Battery tender on, almost full fuel with marine stabil. Overinflation is a good idea. Windows barely cracked. I put a large tray of kitty litter in interior for moisture control. I assume we are talking about a garaged environment, of course. Definitely no starting the engine.

 

Jack the car off the ground to take tension off the springs and shocks. Mice love to chew so but mouse/rat poison around the car and under the car. Cover the car. Also you can spray wd40 on the exposed metal if in a high humidity area. If so also put those containers that absorb humidity. Try to check on the car every couple of weeks to make sure the poison is still there or if you need more. Use traps and glue boards if pets can get in the storage area. Most important is to keep it insured for theft and if there is a fire or the building falls on the car. Your insurance guy will know what you need for storage. Good luck.

 

I'd put it on a jack or lifts, plug in a tender, add Sea Foam into the tank and monthly perform no-start engine circs. Here's a link for the auto no-fuel ignition and I can verify that it works on the 6MT as well. https://aston1936.com/2018/12/14/how...on-martin-db9/

 

This is a good route and I was going to recommend basically the same. You'll want to be fresh with leather conditioner and vacuum before putting into storage. There are several options for mitigating moisture.

 

As someone who has had separate summer and winter cars for over 40 years the only problem I run into occasionally is not adding enough fuel stabilizer. Got a V8V 7 years ago and it hibernates for 6 months in winter. Also have a beater that sleeps all summer and drives all winter. Never start and idle them during their 6 month rest period. Add fuel stabilizer. Keep the battery on a trickle charge. Rolling the car a couple of feet fore or aft a few days before taking it back on the road eliminates any tire flat spots. Change the engine oil immediately after getting it back on the road. Other than a squirrel packing the muffler full of acorns one summer no other major problems.

 

Thanks guys, the car will stand in a garage and will be covered, seems I will be away for min 11 months with no rotation, like I need this at my age right now.
I think my wife will be happy not having to climb in and start the thing, ( however she has expressed her disappointment with my appointment)
i will pump the tires to 4 bar and will replace the oil and even the tires on returning will do the same with the motorcycles

if I disconnect them battery will I have a window problem when I bring it back into service?

 

I have stored cars for extended periods without issue regularly. Most of the advice above is good. However,I don't agree with lifting the car. It has been found that leaving the suspension hanging is not good for the springs, struts and other components that are meant to be weight bearing. I also strongly recommend a fresh oil change PRIOR to storing so the oil is clean and doesn't have any combustion generated acids in it that can corrode the engine while it sits. Over Inflating the tires is fine but I also recommend parking it on something a bit soft (layers of cardboard or thin foam sheets) to prevent flat spots. A full tank of fuel and fuel stabilizer and then obviously a trickle charger on the battery. There is no need to start it during storage, cold starts are the biggest cause of engine wear. Cover it up and it should be as good as you left it upon your return.