MadeThe Move To K16/16g Billets From Tony At EPL
Something i had to ask you. Well when my MAF is plugged in i get these codes always P0172 and P0175 ignition adaption bank 1 and bank 2 rich condition.
Ok i left my MAF unplugged and they never pop up. I am wondering is my MAF going bad or is it bad? I bet that damn EVOM Intake blew my MAF.
Ok i left my MAF unplugged and they never pop up. I am wondering is my MAF going bad or is it bad? I bet that damn EVOM Intake blew my MAF.
Quit posting and start fixing the issues.
Also, just for argument sake, you could use stock diverters and vent them to the atmosphere and probably be better than aftermarket bov's. But either way, you have a MAF tune which should never be vented to the atmosphere. I still want to know how you've hooked up BOV but yet are swapping diverters back into its place. It sounds like hardware being swapped and all the vacuum lines not being correctly capped off or relocated could be part of the problem.
My turbos are RUF K24 hybrids which evidently is some type of a K24/26 variant. They probably spool quicker than a standard k24 because they are used in concert with RUFs matched waste gates, larger intake manifold, larger turbo intake hoses, free low exhaust along with a RUF ECU. I've driven a basically stock flashed x50 car and it felt downright lethargic in comparison with a much later power band.
Oh my god dude. This is EXACTLY why people have kept saying "things may not be right". Having the MAF unplugged means it's going off a default value and not really cross referencing anything. You have a MAF tune, thus your MAF should ALWAYS be plugged in. Unplugging it doesn't "make the codes go away" it means the car doesn't know what the **** is going and and isn't being triggered as a problem when something is actually going on. Colder plugs is most likely not the problem.
Quit posting and start fixing the issues.
Also, just for argument sake, you could use stock diverters and vent them to the atmosphere and probably be better than aftermarket bov's. But either way, you have a MAF tune which should never be vented to the atmosphere. I still want to know how you've hooked up BOV but yet are swapping diverters back into its place. It sounds like hardware being swapped and all the vacuum lines not being correctly capped off or relocated could be part of the problem.
Quit posting and start fixing the issues.
Also, just for argument sake, you could use stock diverters and vent them to the atmosphere and probably be better than aftermarket bov's. But either way, you have a MAF tune which should never be vented to the atmosphere. I still want to know how you've hooked up BOV but yet are swapping diverters back into its place. It sounds like hardware being swapped and all the vacuum lines not being correctly capped off or relocated could be part of the problem.
call into question all of this. let alone bov's lol.
anyone else here running that way? didn't think so.i'm leaning heavily again toward my .02 diagnosis of "munchausen by proxy syndrome" for car nuts lol. that could explain a lot.
How could you possibly even think you can tune the car if as you say your car has:
1. Leaks on the intake side plus other possible areas
2. Throwing fault codes
3. Suspected bad MAF
4. Suspected bad plugs
5. Possible lean condition at 11.9afr
I'd let a competent mechanic go over the engine with a fine toothed comb and fix stuff before you blow stuff up. As a referrence, my engine under full boost will see AFRs dip into the 10s.
1. Leaks on the intake side plus other possible areas
2. Throwing fault codes
3. Suspected bad MAF
4. Suspected bad plugs
5. Possible lean condition at 11.9afr
I'd let a competent mechanic go over the engine with a fine toothed comb and fix stuff before you blow stuff up. As a referrence, my engine under full boost will see AFRs dip into the 10s.
For everyone else saying do this do this do that.
First have someone saying 10s afr wot is great wtf any tuner will tell you your nuts.
Second plugs were just checked there all fine no cracks or anything.
Third having my maf off has nothing to do with wot my afr is still the same checking durametric. Im checking to see if my maf is bad or voltage dropping.
Dont post if you have no damn clue on what your talking about.
First have someone saying 10s afr wot is great wtf any tuner will tell you your nuts.
Second plugs were just checked there all fine no cracks or anything.
Third having my maf off has nothing to do with wot my afr is still the same checking durametric. Im checking to see if my maf is bad or voltage dropping.
Dont post if you have no damn clue on what your talking about.
brilliant. i was educated. the mere fact the 996550 is even questioning whether his spark plugs are even good
call into question all of this. let alone bov's lol.
anyone else here running that way? didn't think so.
i'm leaning heavily again toward my .02 diagnosis of "munchausen by proxy syndrome" for car nuts lol. that could explain a lot.
call into question all of this. let alone bov's lol.
anyone else here running that way? didn't think so.i'm leaning heavily again toward my .02 diagnosis of "munchausen by proxy syndrome" for car nuts lol. that could explain a lot.
Oh my god dude. This is EXACTLY why people have kept saying "things may not be right". Having the MAF unplugged means it's going off a default value and not really cross referencing anything. You have a MAF tune, thus your MAF should ALWAYS be plugged in. Unplugging it doesn't "make the codes go away" it means the car doesn't know what the **** is going and and isn't being triggered as a problem when something is actually going on. Colder plugs is most likely not the problem.
Quit posting and start fixing the issues.
Also, just for argument sake, you could use stock diverters and vent them to the atmosphere and probably be better than aftermarket bov's. But either way, you have a MAF tune which should never be vented to the atmosphere. I still want to know how you've hooked up BOV but yet are swapping diverters back into its place. It sounds like hardware being swapped and all the vacuum lines not being correctly capped off or relocated could be part of the problem.
Quit posting and start fixing the issues.
Also, just for argument sake, you could use stock diverters and vent them to the atmosphere and probably be better than aftermarket bov's. But either way, you have a MAF tune which should never be vented to the atmosphere. I still want to know how you've hooked up BOV but yet are swapping diverters back into its place. It sounds like hardware being swapped and all the vacuum lines not being correctly capped off or relocated could be part of the problem.
Your talking out of your ***. What facts do you have on this claim of taking diverters and releasing pressure to the air vs. a BOV? Its the samething i dont like diverters never did they leak.
Yup abd hes not happy working on a weekend doing this lol but i will still get your stuff. Another thing looks like my maf readings are wacked out. There positive on idle thats not right.
Yes BOV can be used, but the tune is done differently than it is with a standard MAF + diverter setup which does not allow metered air to escape to the atmosphere. Most people are using a blow through setup, or mafless. Which it doesn't sound like you're using either of these systems as I know EPL does not commonly do mafless.
And I did not mean diverters release pressure to the atmosphere, I was simply saying that they could be setup to do this, as the protomotive fender intake systems do.
Last edited by mbgt72; Nov 24, 2013 at 01:01 PM.




