Dyno does not necessarily = real life engine load. Although a dyno can approximate load, it will never be 100% (wind resistance, rolling resistance, etc). Your fueling requirements may be very different on the street. You should do some street pulls regardless. Make sure you start your run below boost threshold (i.e. 2500rpm)

 

Will do just didnt have time tonight to do it....

 

Glad you think your problems are fixed. We can then discuss the rest when you blew the engine.

BTW: look at your timing values again. I wouldn't be happy if that was my car.

What does you hold back doing a log? It is easy and provides all answers you need.

And your boost leak on the intake needs to be taken of before you do further pulls. You get unmetered air into your system - a chance for running lean, especially on top.

 

If Tony thought my logs were bad he would have sent me another file to me. He said my logs are great so not sure what your saying about blowing up my car. Those logs were taken when i had that split on my diverter hose.

 

my 16/24 will see 1.2 @ 3500 in nearly any condition. they just hit earlier ( @ 2k same ) but far sooner than the stock 24's would. not sure what 24's you have ( hybrids? ) but they may spool sooner? but i don't think any will boost before 2k and 4k sounds about right for full boost on my x50 car. or at least as i remember lol

 

My bad. Your logs are great.

 

I dont know tuning as much as you guys still learning but what did u see that you didnt like? Im sure he could fix it he said they looked great. I will do a new pull from 2500 RPM to redline when i get a chance.

 

The problem is those logs, that 'look fine', were acquired with a boost leak and, it sounds like, a possible vacuum leak. The parameters have since changed. Ergo, they are not accurate. That's why everyone has been suggesting a few complete, WOT logs... on the street, in real world conditions..

If you still have a vacuum leak (which it sounds like you do... in the inlet hoses), any logs you acquire, on the dyno or otherwise, will not be a true representation of your car's health. Think of it this way: you've been tuned for an AFR of 11.9:1 with a vacuum leak. If that leak were to somehow resolve, your AFR will swing rich. If it got worse, it will swing lean. All the while, you think everything's fine until a bearing spins or a rod fenestrates your block.

Take home point is that your car needs to be 100% before tuning, and it doesn't sound like you're there yet. Your logs aren't accurate!

Make sure Tony knows he's tuning around a vacuum leak. See how gung ho he is about that...

 

Your right i will get to that i left cable at the shop that sucks.

 

Just as a reference for future logs: this is your ignition timing from your log you posted here before. The red line is the iginition curve of my car when I did my last log - not meant to be a comparison. I always have before/after graphs in my visual representaion of the logs. My "before" data was just replaced with your data.

You have ignition breakups all over the place.

 

Hmm not sure i guess Tony can tell me what he can do for this.

When i floored it i felt no hesitation at all ohh might be because i need a colder spark plugs plus my plugs need replacing soon im guessing.

 

Something i had to ask you. Well when my MAF is plugged in i get these codes always P0172 and P0175 ignition adaption bank 1 and bank 2 rich condition.


Ok i left my MAF unplugged and they never pop up. I am wondering is my MAF going bad or is it bad? I bet that damn EVOM Intake blew my MAF.

 

if your endpipes goes very quick carbon black, it could be a indicator at this car for boost leaks....my experience shows a different endpipe color with boost leaks after short a testdrive

 

My turbos are RUF K24 hybrids which evidently is some type of a K24/26 variant. They probably spool quicker than a standard k24 because they are used in concert with RUFs matched waste gates, larger intake manifold, larger turbo intake hoses, free low exhaust along with a RUF ECU. I've driven a basically stock flashed x50 car and it felt downright lethargic in comparison with a much later power band.

 

How could you possibly even think you can tune the car if as you say your car has:
1. Leaks on the intake side plus other possible areas
2. Throwing fault codes
3. Suspected bad MAF
4. Suspected bad plugs
5. Possible lean condition at 11.9afr

I'd let a competent mechanic go over the engine with a fine toothed comb and fix stuff before you blow stuff up. As a referrence, my engine under full boost will see AFRs dip into the 10s.