WOW! ROTtec 997.1 DRL LED's
I have an 06 and drive my car every day. New lights have been in for 2 weeks with no issues.
Hi Guys,
Have to say the pics look great. I just received mine from CarGym in Hong Kong. Price was a liitle better than others I have seen around and photos look identical.
I'm a little nervous as I'm hoping that it all goes well, I have also ordered the TFLM03 module from Germany. has anyone used this?? does it just connect with the wire from the foglight (splice the positive wire)? seems too easy. To my knowledge and please correct me if I'm wrong but it senses a voltage drop on start up so sends power to the DRL but once the Lights are On how does it sense that and switch off the DRL??
want to try and get this worked out before attempting to install them
Thanks to everyone for going into detail on the installation.
Have to say the pics look great. I just received mine from CarGym in Hong Kong. Price was a liitle better than others I have seen around and photos look identical.
I'm a little nervous as I'm hoping that it all goes well, I have also ordered the TFLM03 module from Germany. has anyone used this?? does it just connect with the wire from the foglight (splice the positive wire)? seems too easy. To my knowledge and please correct me if I'm wrong but it senses a voltage drop on start up so sends power to the DRL but once the Lights are On how does it sense that and switch off the DRL??
want to try and get this worked out before attempting to install them
Thanks to everyone for going into detail on the installation.
The red and black wires go to the psoitive and negative terminals of the battery. The module simply senses the current flow when you turn the key on and detects the current flow has stopped when you shut the key off. I can tell you the DRL's come on as soon as you turn the key on, and they stay on for 5 seconds after the key has been shut off. If that aspect of the module concerns you, buy the TFML01 unit. It does exactly the same thing as the 03 unit but instead of automatically sensing the "key on" via voltage, it uses a wire that you have to hook to your fuse box to a key switched circuit. You'll have to fish that wire through the firewall and down to your fuse box unless you can find a switched circuit under the hood. I opted to go with the automatic unit because it was 1 less wire to fiddle with and it seems to work fine.
Yes, I figured out the original install process when I installed the Dectane DRL module in my 2006. You simply cut the dectane connector off each pair of DRL wires, add 2' of wire so they are long enough to reach to the area of the lights themselves, then you T tap the positive wire to the porsche positive wire (I forget the color) and the ground to the porsche brown wire for the foglight wires. The foglights are the most inboard of the sockets. You also hook 1 orange wire to the porsche positive wire (red/white I think) on the park light. This wire senses when you turn on the park or headlights and shuts the DRL's off.
The red and black wires go to the psoitive and negative terminals of the battery. The module simply senses the current flow when you turn the key on and detects the current flow has stopped when you shut the key off. I can tell you the DRL's come on as soon as you turn the key on, and they stay on for 5 seconds after the key has been shut off. If that aspect of the module concerns you, buy the TFML01 unit. It does exactly the same thing as the 03 unit but instead of automatically sensing the "key on" via voltage, it uses a wire that you have to hook to your fuse box to a key switched circuit. You'll have to fish that wire through the firewall and down to your fuse box unless you can find a switched circuit under the hood. I opted to go with the automatic unit because it was 1 less wire to fiddle with and it seems to work fine.
The red and black wires go to the psoitive and negative terminals of the battery. The module simply senses the current flow when you turn the key on and detects the current flow has stopped when you shut the key off. I can tell you the DRL's come on as soon as you turn the key on, and they stay on for 5 seconds after the key has been shut off. If that aspect of the module concerns you, buy the TFML01 unit. It does exactly the same thing as the 03 unit but instead of automatically sensing the "key on" via voltage, it uses a wire that you have to hook to your fuse box to a key switched circuit. You'll have to fish that wire through the firewall and down to your fuse box unless you can find a switched circuit under the hood. I opted to go with the automatic unit because it was 1 less wire to fiddle with and it seems to work fine.
There was one guy who hooked up his battery tender to his car with LED DRL and Dectane module and the lights went bazerk.
I cant drive my GT3 now because of the snow. But at idle there is no error. when spring comes and i get a error, Will i still be able to get the load resistors?
Last edited by sideWays_swe; Dec 20, 2011 at 03:26 AM.
If they work OK at idle they should work OK the rest of the time. Even if you don't get support from ROTtec, if you do have an issue, you can buy load resistors for like $5 each from superbrightled.com
I'm sure what is happening is the charger puts juice into the battery, the module detects the current flow and turns the lights on, then they time out and turn off. As the charger cycles on-off-on in the voltage float mode it triggers the module.
If you are going to use a battery tender frequently, I would just add a simple crimp on connector that allows you to just unplug the positive wire for the module right at the battery terminal. Plug it back in when you remove the charger and you're ready to go. Or buy the module that requires switched voltage at the fuse box to bypass the automatic feature.
I received my Rottec DRLs yesterday. I'm very pleased with the lights. Here are some pics of the install. Basically, to remove them all you do is insert the card tool as per the owner's manual. Push in once and pull out the assembly a bit, then push in again and it will release. Pull it out and disconnect as per the manual. The only trick is that the fog light bulb and connector need to be removed from the original housing after the wiring has been disconnected. Then you re-use the black connector that the little blue bulb was in. It really couldn't be easier.
What I do not get is that if it is a light module in our cars that is the issue, why is it that only one side is affected and not both? Shouldn't we be then seeing lights out on all sides? And what about other issues? There are just too many of them. I really think that this is a LED DRL quality and assembly issue rather than our cars.
I think the design/quality is bad for this product all together despite it 'looking good' to an outside observer, and that it has predominantly affected the right side light assembly for which we now have to use an outside resistor for.
I appreciate the potential resolution to this, but I just do not appreciate my car being blamed for a problem that seems obviously related to the product design/quality. I mean how many of us have bought the Depo/Dectane lights, and how many had issues? Very few. If the math is done, it is obvious that these LED DRL have a much higher defect rate than other similar products that we use. I think this product was rushed to market under poor design/quality despite the delays and the resons given us stating the opposite.
I think the design/quality is bad for this product all together despite it 'looking good' to an outside observer, and that it has predominantly affected the right side light assembly for which we now have to use an outside resistor for.
I appreciate the potential resolution to this, but I just do not appreciate my car being blamed for a problem that seems obviously related to the product design/quality. I mean how many of us have bought the Depo/Dectane lights, and how many had issues? Very few. If the math is done, it is obvious that these LED DRL have a much higher defect rate than other similar products that we use. I think this product was rushed to market under poor design/quality despite the delays and the resons given us stating the opposite.
Last edited by DirtyVegas; Dec 20, 2011 at 05:02 PM.
Hi Ray. I have not had time to install my light's yet, but with many people having the same issue, wouldn't it make sense to send out the resistors to everyone who purchased lights?
Although I have not experienced to error codes on my car (2006 C2) from either the front or back LED's, I do concur with MJFDDS that Ray should consider sending out the resistors to all purchasers.
Dirty Vegas only if that where true about dectane , there are lots of problems with their rear lights and there after sales service does not exist at least Ray is taking care of things unlike dactane leaves you in the dark still waiting for a reply 4 months after .





