Greetings from Niagara, Ontario, Canada
#391
Checked with the weather man....
Yeah you guys are right that there will very likely be too many April showers down there to bring the Aston.
The cars and coffee and spring fling drive is hosted by the BMW club,. It's more likely at this point to go as a spectator, if it's not raining...
The cars and coffee and spring fling drive is hosted by the BMW club,. It's more likely at this point to go as a spectator, if it's not raining...
#392
This afternoons project was building the side marker LED's...
First I tested to ensure all the 9 LED strip lights were working.
Next I used the AM part number on the smoked lens to make sure the red lights go in the rear markers and the amber in the front pair.
In order to get the lights in the sealed units, I drilled one 3/8" access hole per unit at one end. For the rears, The lights were fed in the hole and the male plug routed out the factory socket connector. For the fronts, the lights were fed in via the factory hole and the hole I made was for access for a pick tool. The pick is a 90 degree tool that served three purposes:
1) To arrange the strip LED's at the correct position
2) To ensure the power and ground wires were positioned alongside the strip lights
3) To pull and apply downward pressure on the light strips to adhere them to the backing plates with the supplied 3M tape
After the lights were in position and the plugs were accessible out the factory hole, I covered the access holes with electrical tape. You could also use a black silicone or adhesive. I went with the tape for now in case I need to re-position anything during the installation into the fenders and rear bumper.
Here are the pictures - I did the red rears first and second, then the amber fronts third and fourth.
Let me know if you have any questions:
First one done, the second takes half the time
Time for the fronts - a little more difficult feeding the lights the stock hole but I just took my time and it went fine. They are very flexible and the 3M tape doesn't stick until pressure is applied:
3 done and 1 to go:
I'm happy with the results, your results may vary
Top tip is to be very careful drilling to ensure you don't touch the lense when going through.
Also if you are wondering, I first tried to separate the units with heat but the plastic backing plate was getting soft before the glue let go - therefore above was the infamous "Plan B"
Next I used the AM part number on the smoked lens to make sure the red lights go in the rear markers and the amber in the front pair.
In order to get the lights in the sealed units, I drilled one 3/8" access hole per unit at one end. For the rears, The lights were fed in the hole and the male plug routed out the factory socket connector. For the fronts, the lights were fed in via the factory hole and the hole I made was for access for a pick tool. The pick is a 90 degree tool that served three purposes:
1) To arrange the strip LED's at the correct position
2) To ensure the power and ground wires were positioned alongside the strip lights
3) To pull and apply downward pressure on the light strips to adhere them to the backing plates with the supplied 3M tape
After the lights were in position and the plugs were accessible out the factory hole, I covered the access holes with electrical tape. You could also use a black silicone or adhesive. I went with the tape for now in case I need to re-position anything during the installation into the fenders and rear bumper.
Here are the pictures - I did the red rears first and second, then the amber fronts third and fourth.
Let me know if you have any questions:
First one done, the second takes half the time
Time for the fronts - a little more difficult feeding the lights the stock hole but I just took my time and it went fine. They are very flexible and the 3M tape doesn't stick until pressure is applied:
3 done and 1 to go:
I'm happy with the results, your results may vary
Top tip is to be very careful drilling to ensure you don't touch the lense when going through.
Also if you are wondering, I first tried to separate the units with heat but the plastic backing plate was getting soft before the glue let go - therefore above was the infamous "Plan B"
Last edited by 007V8Vantage; 04-15-2018 at 05:19 PM.
#394
#396
jealous, wish I had the funds right now for something like that! well that and some cats, and a tune, and a titanium exhaust, and some wilwood brakes, and a dbs shift **** and... lol $$$$
#400
In my mind I justified these because I need to replace my starter (which involves removing the right side exhaust manifold)
#401
Next I'm going to get the headers ceramic coated.
I visited a couple tuners to select a chassis dyno for RWHP testing.
However my issue is the Vantage won't crank over, so I might have to forgo the baseline testing and just measure after the mods are complete.
#402
perfect excuse! love it
#403
Luckily, I purposely bought the second cheapest Vantage I could find last year so that I would have some money available for "Performance Improvements".
Yes our dog "Aston" brightens every other day for me when I get home from work
My wife buys the dog food and I'm pretty sure it's one of the most expensive kinds available
#405
Any further tips or suggestions from your experience would be appreciated....