If you have access to a lift. That should help. I did mine on jackstands, mind you I had the car 36" off the ground. The passenger side header is easier than the drivers side. So take off both front wheel wells, the front underbelly tray, and the plastic spark plug valve cover things. I would recommend spraying the bolts on the header at the block with some sort of penetrating fluid. That kinda sucks because it just ends up spraying back in your face due to no access. The bolts are robust, but you don't wanna strip them. Or break them. If you brake one of those bolts you might need to remove the engine to replace them. Be careful. Your probably gonna need to replace a couple of nuts after you take them off. I reused most of mine. Only use the factory nuts. They are designed to expand and contract under the heat. You need to release the motor mounts and move the engine up and down to access each bolt at the right angle. Go from the side or underneath to access each bolt. A mid rise socket, wobbly extension, u joint sockets and stubby wrench. Those help. The ERG pipe on the drivers side is really a pain to unbolt at the header. After you unbolt the header on the drivers side you have to move that corrugated heat shield on the car out of the way. There is also a main power cable behind the heat shield you need to move. The drivers side header will wiggle out but it's a tight fit, because there is a heat shield built into the stock header. If you have help it shouldn't be too bad. Hope this helps!

 

Awesome feedback, thanks!
Sorry a couple questions....
Do you have any photos of them installed?
Did you ceramic coat them first?

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-today-12.html

Check my posts starting on Page 12 to 14. I haven't been able to "evaluate" the driving experience with these much. It's still cold here. I had it out in 10 degree weather. In 10 degree weather it would spin the tires on full throttle in first and second gear. Could be cold tires..... Seems to be easier to drive off the line. Could the extra torque down lower on the rev range make the clutch easier to roll on? Maybe? It sounds much more refined than just the cats. I did request the tune eliminate the pops and crackles on the overrun. Come on spring!!!!!

 

I decided to go with the ceramic coating and dropped the headers off at Fireball Performance Coatings. I went with a bright finish instead of black as they cost too much not to show them off. I think that finish will compliment the colour of the aluminum chassis.

 

Picked up the ceramic coated headers today.
I did go with the polished finish so they are noticeable in the engine bay.
However they are not easy to reach so they will dull to a gray over time which should still compliment the aluminum chassis colour.

Here's a teaser pic:

 

Paint job and buffing entire car is complete
I had CAA tow it home since it hasn't started since the shop killed the battery.

I got my first chance to use the tow ring






I'm very satisfied with the quality of the bodywork, colour match and paint blending.
I do see minor orange peel on one panel as Aston OEM paint is of a very high standard to compare.
Overall I'm happy with the results, the car is looking its best since I purchased it and the price was excellent value for money!

Time to find out why it doesn't start - on the bright side since they had to push it around the shop, I know it wasn't out on any joyrides

 

Looks like a new Vantage. It's a little known fact that ASTON MARTIN was going to call the color of your car 20 second high. Because it's only clean for 20 seconds and that's the high you get when it's clean!
Ron

 

Thanks Ron. As a matter of fact a car wash customer from next door came over to check it out. He thought it was new, and was amazed it's over 10 years old.
Then he asked about reliability and I said "Great except it doesn't start right now"

Great news is I fixed the issue by replacing a blown starter solenoid fuse in the engine bay fuse box. My guess is it blew while the were trying the start the car with a commercial charger connected at the time.



One new 25 amp fuse and I'm back in business

....and yes my paint shows dirt faster than the brake dust appears on my wheels

 

For this season my plan for spacing front wheels is a simple one.
Just using a 5/16" ~ 8 mm plate.
This allows the wheel to still mount hub-centric.
While there is room to move it further out, I was concerned about stone chips so this is my compromise for now.
Here are the pics...

What I bought:


Loving the jack pads for quickly lifting one side of the car for wheel removal:


Great chance to spring clean inside of rim:


Set up centred on hub:


Still 16 threads exposed on studs:


Approx half of the hub depth exposed that still centres the wheel:


Here is the look with spacer installed:




8 mm spacer leaves approx 11 mm from flush:


Here's the look with wheel back on the ground:






Next up is the rear wheel spacers...

 

As previously shown I had a pair of hub centric wheel spacers made in a thickness of 25 mm ~ 1 inch.

I knew the OEM 7 spoke rims wouldn't bolt right on without a mod, but given I paid $150 per rim with tire, I wasn't afraid to have a go

Here's how I did it myself for less than $20

1) Removed wheels and fit adapter onto hub




2) Torque the 3/4" supplied nuts to same spec as wheel lugs


3) Fitted wheel and loosely tightened to create interference marks in the wheel pockets then removed wheels to see contact points


4) The depth is not the issue, the studs are a larger circumference - see marks below


5) Took a measurement of the protruding stock studs - I needed 12 mm clearance depth


6) Bought a few 1/2" rotary high speed steel files and fitted to my 1/2" drill


7) Since there is already a centred groove to enlarge, it was easy to keep the drill vertical and use as a milling machine. It easily cuts the soft aluminum. Just took my time until I reached 12.5 mm depth on each of the 5 wheel pockets. Due to the clockwise rotation of the chuck, they all end up slightly right of centre so I just made them big enough to clear the stud threads








8) Then I just bolted the wheel on with no interference or damage to the OEM studs on my first try




9) Here's the view of the tire flush with the fender lip




10) Repeat on the other side, have your rear wheels re-balanced and your done




P.S. Here's a good view and first look of my freshly painted Onyx Black rear diffuser. Then the stainless license plate frame looked out of place, so upon style advice from the wife, it was swapped for a thin gloss black frame instead:

 

Ryan , please paint your brake rotor hubs !!!!!!!
I used the DupliColour brake caliper paint . Dries really quick , brush on several coats and it doest peel .
You can get it at crappy tire .

 

Yes I've used that before with good results.

You're kinda stealing my thunder here, but I'll update to say:

"These rotors are done, so I haven't bothered painting them as I found a much more expensive way of getting black painted rotor hubs"

 

Got to check out his late model DB9 as well - first time I've seen this colour in person:

 

Got this idea from a fellow AMOC member with a black Vantage.

Purely for a cleaner balanced look and no need to advertise it's the entry level Aston Martin.

Yep I'm keeping the Vantage badge but steps to remove it were easy.

1) Warm glue with heat gun
2) Use fishing line to separate glue from body
3) Apply Goo Gone to remove glue residue
4) Polish and wax the paint by hand with a micro fiber towel

I like the look as a "no cost" option:

 

While I'm back here with the heat gun I warmed and removed the taillight inserts, replaced the 3M two way tape and applied the real carbon fiber pieces I bought online over the winter.

Second time I've swapped the inserts so this time it was "Easy Peasy"







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