iPad Mini in-dash install [996 MkII]
thats how i was able to turn off the mini by using a long press thru cydia activator. unfortunately theres no provision to turn it back on. when the mini is on all i get is static on any other station. what station are you tuning the socsche cable to?
i thought i had the carpod figured out but it has reverted back to the original settings. the mechanical side of this was easy but the software side for a techno defunk like me is a a major pain!
i can see all the music thru itunes but the artwork is tiny and cant see it while driving.
i thought i had the carpod figured out but it has reverted back to the original settings. the mechanical side of this was easy but the software side for a techno defunk like me is a a major pain!
i can see all the music thru itunes but the artwork is tiny and cant see it while driving.
Agree... almost never use Podcar anymore.
The majority of the time I have Pandora or Slacker playing music in the background and Vuze running maps on the display. When I'm in the mountains outside of cell coverage, I'll run my local itunes music in the background instead.
Once nice thing about the Pioneer as a head unit and the USB connection is the pioneer will display station/song info from Pandora or Slacker, as well as allow skip forward and change stations.
The majority of the time I have Pandora or Slacker playing music in the background and Vuze running maps on the display. When I'm in the mountains outside of cell coverage, I'll run my local itunes music in the background instead.
Once nice thing about the Pioneer as a head unit and the USB connection is the pioneer will display station/song info from Pandora or Slacker, as well as allow skip forward and change stations.
Anyone have expreience switching from a PCM1 to a CDR220?
I'm trying to go forward with this mod, but right now I'm stuck on getting audio from the CDR220.
I've made a couple threads on various sites trying to tap into some more skilled knowledge than myself. This is a local thread if anyone has any insight.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...cdr-220-a.html
I'm trying to go forward with this mod, but right now I'm stuck on getting audio from the CDR220.
I've made a couple threads on various sites trying to tap into some more skilled knowledge than myself. This is a local thread if anyone has any insight.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...cdr-220-a.html
Anyone have expreience switching from a PCM1 to a CDR220?
I'm trying to go forward with this mod, but right now I'm stuck on getting audio from the CDR220.
I've made a couple threads on various sites trying to tap into some more skilled knowledge than myself. This is a local thread if anyone has any insight.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...cdr-220-a.html
I'm trying to go forward with this mod, but right now I'm stuck on getting audio from the CDR220.
I've made a couple threads on various sites trying to tap into some more skilled knowledge than myself. This is a local thread if anyone has any insight.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...cdr-220-a.html
Right now I'm looking at doing a 3 way component and just doing fronts with a 4ch JL amp. I'm looking at the Hertz ESK 163L or Focal 165a3 (or parting together a system). That way I can just swap out all the front speakers, and probably not do rear fill (i'm a 2ch guy and don't care much for rear fill).
I tested my CDR220 in another 996TT and everything powered on fine. So I'm thinking you're right about it being a power wire from the radio to the amp. But I still don't know what would be different. I called Becker inquiring about the RCA out cable, and they said the PCM1 is basically just a CDR220 on the top and they didn't see any reason why it shouldn't be a direct plug & play swap over.
mbgt72, I read your other thread and if it is power to the amp then see my post from earlier (quoted below)...
How is your sound wired up if the PCM1 did not have a "Plug B"? Only other way I see is the little yellow C1 molex with # 1-6 is being used. If that's the case then check the DSP ground as suggested in your other thread.
If none of the above, you can use the Metra 70-1784 Wire Harness that uses RCA's to wire to the amp. Go aftermarket and plug the RCA pre amps right in. The CDR220 does not have RCA pre amp outputs. You may have to get a molex tool and make your own harness.
How is your sound wired up if the PCM1 did not have a "Plug B"? Only other way I see is the little yellow C1 molex with # 1-6 is being used. If that's the case then check the DSP ground as suggested in your other thread.
If none of the above, you can use the Metra 70-1784 Wire Harness that uses RCA's to wire to the amp. Go aftermarket and plug the RCA pre amps right in. The CDR220 does not have RCA pre amp outputs. You may have to get a molex tool and make your own harness.
I too have the Bose amp, CD changer, etc. (with CDR-220). I ended up getting both the Metra 70-1784 and the Metra 70-1787 Wire Harness. My problem was two things. 1. I came across lot of posts where people said you have to use RCA's to wire to the amp. 2. Everything in the yellow C1 is for the CD changer so I assumed the +12V switched (C1 slot 6) was too. Nope. I finally came across a very detailed wiring diagram (on renntech I think) that properly identified that C1 slot 6 as the +12V switched for the "AMP".
In the end, the Metra 70-1787 Wire Harness was the right one for me.
In the end, the Metra 70-1787 Wire Harness was the right one for me.
Yea, I'm thinking about going aftermarket Amp and speakers, but I'd really like to keep the oem headunit for looks.
Right now I'm looking at doing a 3 way component and just doing fronts with a 4ch JL amp. I'm looking at the Hertz ESK 163L or Focal 165a3 (or parting together a system). That way I can just swap out all the front speakers, and probably not do rear fill (i'm a 2ch guy and don't care much for rear fill).
I tested my CDR220 in another 996TT and everything powered on fine. So I'm thinking you're right about it being a power wire from the radio to the amp. But I still don't know what would be different. I called Becker inquiring about the RCA out cable, and they said the PCM1 is basically just a CDR220 on the top and they didn't see any reason why it shouldn't be a direct plug & play swap over.
Right now I'm looking at doing a 3 way component and just doing fronts with a 4ch JL amp. I'm looking at the Hertz ESK 163L or Focal 165a3 (or parting together a system). That way I can just swap out all the front speakers, and probably not do rear fill (i'm a 2ch guy and don't care much for rear fill).
I tested my CDR220 in another 996TT and everything powered on fine. So I'm thinking you're right about it being a power wire from the radio to the amp. But I still don't know what would be different. I called Becker inquiring about the RCA out cable, and they said the PCM1 is basically just a CDR220 on the top and they didn't see any reason why it shouldn't be a direct plug & play swap over.
Double check C1 #6 to the amp and the DSP. (I do not know about the DSP issue as I did not have a PCM1)
mbgt72, I read your other thread and if it is power to the amp then see my post from earlier (quoted below)...
How is your sound wired up if the PCM1 did not have a "Plug B"? Only other way I see is the little yellow C1 molex with # 1-6 is being used. If that's the case then check the DSP ground as suggested in your other thread.
If none of the above, you can use the Metra 70-1784 Wire Harness that uses RCA's to wire to the amp. Go aftermarket and plug the RCA pre amps right in. The CDR220 does not have RCA pre amp outputs. You may have to get a molex tool and make your own harness.
How is your sound wired up if the PCM1 did not have a "Plug B"? Only other way I see is the little yellow C1 molex with # 1-6 is being used. If that's the case then check the DSP ground as suggested in your other thread.
If none of the above, you can use the Metra 70-1784 Wire Harness that uses RCA's to wire to the amp. Go aftermarket and plug the RCA pre amps right in. The CDR220 does not have RCA pre amp outputs. You may have to get a molex tool and make your own harness.
Also, there isn't a fuse on the actual amp of the oem unit. I even opening it up. Everything looks fine. I'm not sure about the "dsp ground" though, since the M680 contains the DSP, and I hadn't touched the amplifier basically.
I have ordered a RCA low-level line out from becker to use, I just had wished I could skip that step and get the oem working for a little while as it should just be a plug & play as I understand it and from what becker told me.
Pins 1-6 are there on the C1 connector. And I checked that there is a 12V feed from the Pin 6, which should be the active signal to turn on the M680 (which is the Amp & DSP) as I understand.
Also, there isn't a fuse on the actual amp of the oem unit. I even opening it up. Everything looks fine. I'm not sure about the "dsp ground" though, since the M680 contains the DSP, and I hadn't touched the amplifier basically.
I have ordered a RCA low-level line out from becker to use, I just had wished I could skip that step and get the oem working for a little while as it should just be a plug & play as I understand it and from what becker told me.
Also, there isn't a fuse on the actual amp of the oem unit. I even opening it up. Everything looks fine. I'm not sure about the "dsp ground" though, since the M680 contains the DSP, and I hadn't touched the amplifier basically.
I have ordered a RCA low-level line out from becker to use, I just had wished I could skip that step and get the oem working for a little while as it should just be a plug & play as I understand it and from what becker told me.
I didn't take any pics, but, I'm going to get an LTE iPad Mini, and will install that in place of the iPad wifi I put in there now (I already had the wifi one, just wanted to play with it). I'll get some pics then for you.
One note, my AC unit was already in the very lower level. I purchased a single DIN Pioneer (DEH-80PRS) and installed that right above the AC unit (where storage area was). I had to remove the original unit from the 2nd slot down, and the cupholders from the top slot.
Also, I did not have the Bose system.
Hey Kevin, I have an 2001, and did this myself. Grant you, the process is a little bit different, but, using PFBZ's example as guidance, it was pretty easy (if not a little time consuming due to grinding the plastic away).
I didn't take any pics, but, I'm going to get an LTE iPad Mini, and will install that in place of the iPad wifi I put in there now (I already had the wifi one, just wanted to play with it). I'll get some pics then for you.
One note, my AC unit was already in the very lower level. I purchased a single DIN Pioneer (DEH-80PRS) and installed that right above the AC unit (where storage area was). I had to remove the original unit from the 2nd slot down, and the cupholders from the top slot.
Also, I did not have the Bose system.
I didn't take any pics, but, I'm going to get an LTE iPad Mini, and will install that in place of the iPad wifi I put in there now (I already had the wifi one, just wanted to play with it). I'll get some pics then for you.
One note, my AC unit was already in the very lower level. I purchased a single DIN Pioneer (DEH-80PRS) and installed that right above the AC unit (where storage area was). I had to remove the original unit from the 2nd slot down, and the cupholders from the top slot.
Also, I did not have the Bose system.
The unit I have (Others may do the same), interfaces pretty good with the iPad. It can control the library, Pandora, cell blue tooth (for my phone). One other bonus of the unit I have, it has 2 USB inputs. Therefore, I ran one USB cable to the elbow/arm support thingy. I just drop my phone in there when I get in, it charges it, and I can then control the iPhone from the headunit as well.
Essentially, it charges both (iPad and iPhone), and I have the ability to use whichever I want for music, pandora, etc.





